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Olivia Heal

Olivia Heal

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The Taxidermist in The White Review

The Studio in The Literateur

Sheepskin in The White Review

Sud de France by Caroline Conran (TLS)

16 Sunday Dec 2012

Posted by the scrivener in Food, Reviews

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BOOK REVIEW

…

The Languedoc, or langue d’oc, the land and language of Occitan, is hemmed in by the Pyrenees in the south-west, the Rhône in the east and the Mediterranean sea.  The rich mixture of influences heard in the region’s language is echoed in its culinary traditions, as portrayed in Sud de France, Caroline Conran’s eminently readable cookbook.  The region’s food, she explains, is determined by location: spanning mountain, river and sea, strung between neighbouring Provence and Catalonia, there is the Catalan pan amb tomát and salt cod;  fromage de brebis from the mountains, Roquefort from the caves; octopus, lobster, mussels;  salt from the Camargue.  Olive oil and lard are combined in cooking.   Practices of home charcuterie, hunting and foraging are widespread.

The recipes are preceded by a compelling seventy page essay on “The Tastes of Languedoc”.  With knowledge of produits du terroir, la cueillette and la chasse, Conran expounds the varieties of garlic, onions and the best cheeses of the region.  She describes hunting wild boar and picking mushrooms, and how to prepare snails:  purge for two to three days, feeding on “bunches of thyme or dill, to perfume their flesh”, fast for two to three weeks, cook, soak in brine, gut.  She initiates the reader into “pig-killing day” or the more poetic “les noces du cochon”, when the family pig is slaughtered and butchered.  “Charcuterie is essential to everyday life in the midi” and Conran herself doesn’t falter: “There is something thrilling about making your own sausages” even if it comes to “wrestling with a funnel and a wooden spoon”.  At moments her enthusiasm wavers: “One taste I have very nearly acquired is […] for feche” (salted pig’s liver), and as to le sac d’os, the Languedocien answer to haggis, “I have never seen it or tried it, and probably that is a good decision.”

Sud de France is as much a guide to the region as it is a cookbook.  It contains an index, a glossary, a table of the names of wild herbs in French, Latin and English and details of the regional markets and food festivals.  Engaging and erudite, Conran revivifies the sort of cookery once championed by Elizabeth David, not haute cuisine but the food of wayside inns and provincial homes.

…

SUD DE FRANCE by Caroline Conran

The food and cooking of Languedoc

330 pp.  Prospect Books.

978 1 903018 90 3

…

This review was published in the TLS November 30th 2012.

Apple-Picking

23 Tuesday Oct 2012

Posted by the scrivener in Writing

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A story

…

They were to spend the afternoon picking the last of the apples. Together. He was late and she was sat on a chair in the kitchen, waiting. Outside, a searing blue sky, warm for autumn, perfect for picking. Not that she’d have noticed, sat in the kitchen, where the walls, thick, and the windows, low, preserved a year-round cool. Shifting on the chair she rose, along a dark corridor, up the carpeted stairs to their bedroom. There, with a quick glance appreciating the neatness: the bed made, creaseless, pulled across with a moss-green quilt; to his side an old French carafe of water, Paul Masson repeating around the base, that, a glass, a pen and paper, and a gardening manual; to hers, a recent novel, bent open. She reached to close it, neaten it, before deciding she approved, it lent a nuance of bohemia to the somewhat mismatched room, the novel did, open, spine bent. Yes, she approved. On top of the chest of drawers a selection of paperbacks pressed in between a pair of ceramic bookends. His pyjamas were laid out on his pillow and his slippers peeping from under the bed. She drew her finger along the top of the chest of drawers frowning at the sticky layer of dust, altered the angle of the wedding photo, made a mental note to bring up a duster for the chest of drawers, the bookends, the wedding photo. More ornamental than practical they were inevitably gathering dust. From the chest of drawers she took a wool-mohair blend round-necked cardigan, mustard coloured with gold buttons. Pulling it over her bare shoulders. Sat on a chair in the kitchen, waiting.

It was the method that made her falter. That, or the worry of getting it wrong. The willow apple basket, the ladder, the wheelbarrow? The varieties to pick, those to discard. Those with bruises, wormholes, eaten by wasps or the blackbirds. A mammoth task. And then, climbing the tree… No. Apple-picking was a job for two, she reassured herself. But the waiting was pulling at her nerves, unable to do anything else, for… for this afternoon they were going to pick the rest of the apples. Shifting again on the chair, she pushed her hair back behind her ears, exasperated, she half got up. Half-got-up, half-resolute she would do it herself. But, what if I get it wrong? and sat down again. She conjured up the images she had been playing all day: him up the tree, shaking it, her in laughter, ducking to avoid the apples pelting, pulling wide her petticoats, catching apples in her skirts… Mid-reverie she started. Jarring through the air the tune of an ice-cream van, the jingle, since a child more eerie than enticing. Playing its way through the village. For who? she wondered, shivered. Shivered, kneading the wool cardigan over her forearms, drawing it over her front, losing its bulk, she noticed, her body. Like age creeping in and sketching of her a spindly spinster, she felt, drawing it over her front, her stomach light and baggy beneath the camisole, light, like she hadn’t eaten. Had she eaten? she wondered a moment. She’d certainly made him breakfast: poached kipper, half a roasted tomato, small cafetière of coffee, rye toast, slice of lemon, dish of butter. She glanced over to the jug she used to poach the kipper, still upside-down on the draining board, confirming any doubts. A hundred things I could be doing, she thought, unable to do any of them. She wasn’t a spinster, but it was now near an hour since he’d said he’d be back. Won’t he call? With an anxious intake of breath she fixed her eyes on the telephone, watching it dissolve beneath her pleading gaze, willing it to ring. Even as a child she hadn’t been very adept at climbing trees. Long minutes, and pale, she realised she was holding her breath. With a heavy exhale she released. Don’t be so silly, she said out loud with a little laugh. And rose to check the answerphone, again.

That morning the boy had called round. Bare-armed she was clearing the table after his breakfast. The boy had knocked on the door. Very tall, peering in, it was a moment before she could place him. He had in his hand an invitation to his art project, a sort of installation, temporary, or had he said temporal? on the marshes. He had grown, was a pile of gawky shoulders whittled down to long matchstick legs, in skinny tracksuit trousers, grey and pulled up above, tight around above his white ankles, the knuckles blatant, indecent. She was immediately conscious of her own bare arms, the skin was slipping from them, sagging, as she raised them to reach the coffee, and he near made her blush. Near blush as he gave her the invitation, as if to one of the arty few. She was one of few, he had said, talking with such intimacy, but in a tone more akin to recital, monotone, and his gaze hooked to the edge of the table. There she was blushing and he wasn’t even looking at her. Otherwise, he had an interview, he had said. Curator work in a museum in London, not a name she knew. She could picture him in interview just as he was then: keeping his cool, his eyes focussed on an unmoving spot, neatly placing his words together, loading them with conviction, neatly rounding them off. Don’t catch me out, praying. Admiration it seemed, offered in words lacking any tone of admiration or flattery, of anything. But could she, just, at the back of his throat, at the front of his words, hear a slight stuttering of self? Something fluttering, uncontained. Such enthusiasm he said (without enthusiasm) for the landscape here, her own work. (A petty part-time stint gone on too long in educational arts at the local primaries. A means of filling time). Of course she wasn’t his type. His type was as pale, hollowcheeked as he himself, darkrimmed eyes, chainsmoking, edgy comments falling from her mouth like ash off her fag. Country-ruddy wasn’t him at all, and, she was way too old. But, didn’t, well these things happened, didn’t they?

In his stance she recalled the child, and an envy of motherhood struck her with pangs so visceral that she had to lean against the table, look down, catch herself. She remembered him really young, quarrelsome, thrown out of school, childrebel, despaired of, parents couldn’t keep a hand on him, angry, violent, lashing out in class, at other kids, swearing before the rest had learnt their times-tables. Seeing this child in the boy, the man before her, she felt a desire to push up against him. The boy, now adult, stating his convictions as to art and life… to push up against him! The father had gone and everyone had blamed the mother, spoilt the kid, an artist too, they blamed liberal-thinking, throwing doses of moral judgement at her back, comparing their own far-superior schools of thought as to child-rearing, a good smack never did a child any harm, they agreed. She’d bring him into school on the back of a motorbike, they whispered like sin, her in leathers. Punk, they’d call her some days. She painted landscapes, abstract, in ludicrous colours. Hippy, others. But hers were catchier than the bucolic, aquarelle tendency along the coast line.

There he was, the boy. Stood there qualifying each statement as if in fear of offending or being misunderstood, drawing parentheses into his sentences to better explain. A whole drama of self expression before her. But, again she remarked, there wasn’t a breath of feeling in it. Did she intimidate him? Or, was he aware of the way he was considered by those that had known him then, and trying too hard to set it to rights? He had these long fingers, white and near elegant catching round the coffee mug, knuckling too, like his ankle up against the chairleg.
She put him out of her mind.

Oh! Catching her breath, there he was. Abruptly silly, she prepared to greet her husband, to pretend she had been doing something, like she was ready. Fool, she realised, still in a skirt and her suede pumps. Fool, and hopped upstairs to pull on some old jeans and boots.

There he was. Hauling feed sacks out of the boot of the car. Staunch, sunken. Of course. This was the man for whom she made breakfast every day. Just, a bit older than the figure of her daydreams. She was vaguely dismayed by this lack of correlation, as though she had forgotten they were no longer just in their twenties, just meeting. Age had etched its mark upon him, as it had her, but a shared life, change so slow, so natural, such a play over the course of time, had made this blemishing unremarkable.

He turned to her. ‘I stopped to pick up apples from Simon on the way back.’

Simon, she thought. Of course.
The image of Simon, portly, was reassuring. And now, she didn’t care. She fell into the warmth, the delight of his arrival and in a voice of girlhood, said, ‘Why don’t you reverse your car, back to the shed, you won’t have to carry them so far. How was your day?’ Anticipating the break-down of the day’s activities, continuity as necessary as the made bed, as the kipper.
‘No, no, they’re not heavy.’
In cords and boots and although his belly was round and more-than-evident over the top of his trousers he still held something of, something gallant. Close, he smiled and she forgot. Not forsaken.

‘Less apples this year’.

‘Less apples this year’, she repeated.

‘A cold winter we’d have hoped for more.’

He had a way of playing the words in his mouth before releasing them. Letting each sit on his tongue. Letting it round, find its shape, shape its whole in his mouth before it was uttered. A mere moment but it offered weight to his words. Weight, she thought, and reflection. Some might have thought him slow.

He stopped and looked at her.
With slow words drawing up the ritual sequence of the days events, he looked at her. Wearing a mustard yellow cardigan, sort of fluffy, perky gold buttons and unsuited to the weather, unsuited to the job. A hole on the sleeve, barely large enough to reveal any arm below, but the hole fixated him. His mouth and his eyes seemed to form round the hole. His eyes played around the hole, reading into it something it didn’t mean, reading shabby, reading careless, reading resignation. ‘You have a hole in your jumper’, he said aloud, interrupting the ritual. You have a hole in your jumper. The statement stood shock-still in the air, surprising them both. For, she always had holes in her jumpers.

Then.
‘Let me get the rest of the apples from the car. We have written labels…we have put the labels inside the bags. It is important not to mix up the varieties. So, each bag has a label in it’, he explained. ‘I’ll… go to the car.’

She was accustomed to his way of stretching out his sentences, his scant words being placed one by one in the air. She had a habit, a little game, of watching. She listened after. She watched his words, full, falling her way like clods of earth, following them with her eyes, each a clod thrown heavily, steadily to the ground. ‘Then I’ve got to get on, dear, back to Simon’s. He needs a hand, you know. Loads more apples to pick up, I just wanted to drop these off.’ Behind his words, shaping their sense amongst the stones in the gravel, she saw the boy pushing shut the door of his house. He had on a coat, inappropriate for the weather, she thought. It accentuated his shape, hanging down from his shoulders, it made him big. Ankles still peeking between hemline and shoes. Perhaps it was the gaunt slouch, the artist thing. She had once thought herself an artist. Now when she thought about it, she qualified it with the word “unrealised”, or, on less-forgiving days “failed”. Would she one day remove the thought itself. Forget it? She watched him, not glancing her way as she prepared herself for his glance, disappear towards the village. ‘I couldn’t refuse him, with the kids, and Janine so close to bursting…’ The word stunned her. It rushed back up at her and smacked her in the face. Bursting?

‘Bursting? What sort of word is that to describe… a pregnant woman? A woman darling, not a fruit, not a balloon!’ And in the same shout she began to realise that he was not going to spend the afternoon picking apples with her. He was telling her something quite else. In the same shout she felt her day crumble, her delight shrivel into disappointment. ‘Sorry?’ He queried her anger with his sedate voice. Janine, skinny Janine, plump to bursting, the comparison with herself was unavoidable. Narrow-hipped, pallid Janine about to have a fourth child, while she…once so pink and fleshy. ‘A real chore I know, but I can’t let them down.’ He was telling her something and she couldn’t follow, for it was quite the antithesis of the afternoon she had been rehearsing in her head. Her upset was a child’s. ‘They’re so good to us.’ His eyes watching her and her building up a wall of pride in his gaze, holding back the tantrum welling up. ‘Let me just get these into the shed.’

He had been leaning on the door of the shed as he spoke. He pushed himself upright and strode to the car. She steadied herself, reminded herself how good all her friends said she looked, how they envied her shrinking size. They all seemed to be going the other way through middle age, filling out, plumping, rounding, rosy-ing. She spun out his story before her, allowing doubt to seep in along the edges. She didn’t believe Simon had asked him. Simon. Ask for a hand? No. He had offered, she was sure, rather spend an afternoon in the ripeness of a young family, than… The idea was too painful to shape.

He had returned to the work at hand, repeating, ‘Now, we mustn’t mix these, so between Simon and I, we have labelled them. There’s a piece of paper in each bag, each with the variety written on it. There are the Ida Reds, Jonas, there Greensleeves, there Russets, there the cookers, Spartans, Coxs…’ Dipping in and out of the bags. ‘They’ll be ok left in the sacks for a couple of days if the weather doesn’t warm up. But if they are left any longer you’ll have to lay them out on trays or tables, palettes are good. I wouldn’t bother wrapping them in newspaper, just check through them for bruising, rot. Give Simon a ring to organise the juicing. In the meantime, lay them out on the tables, not touching, chuck out any of the bad ones. Yup, palettes are best, the air can circulate. Do the same with ours. Not touching. Make sure you keep the varieties separate. And the labels. Of course the flavour of the juice will change accordingly, the Russets get sweet off the tree, but you shouldn’t leave them too long or the juice starts to taste musty. Want the freshness of the Jonas and the Greensleeves to come through.’

Holding herself steady inside the shed, she felt him pelting words at her like apples, and she couldn’t hear them. Resolving just to stand still, steady, wait till it was over, then ask him. She watched him rummage in a bag with a torn-off piece of paper in it on which was written Spartans. She watched him take a thick purple-skinned apple, like a large round plum, watched it held in his hardcrafted hand. She braced herself, readied her body as if he were to pelt her with it, with the sack of them. Instead, he rubbed it on his cords.

‘But,’
Yet this time the words lining up on her tongue were foreign to her mouth. She couldn’t find them, she stalled. She looked into a gulf before her into which she had to put words. ‘But, we were to pick the apples,’ she tried, ‘together’. A whisper.

‘What?’

Braced, shirking his response, she asked, ‘Are… are you going to pick the apples with me?’

‘Well darling you can pick them yourself, can’t you? It’s such a lovely afternoon, take the apple basket…’

She imagined apples being thrown at her from all sides, bruising into her body. Resigned to her tragedy, she let them knock her to the ground. Falling, a childhood image came to her: a girl being pelted with stones, with shoes, with unripe apples, by the boys. A line from a storybook: It’s what they do here, when they’re in love with anyone they throw things at them. She looked up to him and smiled, sadly. He brought the apple to his mouth and bit into it, and if she had the strength she would have taken one too. Memories of Spartans, those early days, the flesh white, and clean and sweet, and scented like melons. He stood the sacks in the far corner, his back to her, then turned and made ready to leave the shed. Her afternoon again toppled before her and this time released a flurry of words from her mouth.

‘The boy called round’, at first giddily, sounding it out like a retort in her head.

‘What boy?’

‘You know. The neighbour’s boy, he’s back home, doing some art or something.’

He seemed to miss the point, but stayed, stood in the dark of the shed, facing her. She wasn’t quite sure what the point was either, but it was important. Important that she told him that, about the boy. And then, that the bedroom needed dusting, that they were low on kippers, that no, no one had rung today, no. She picked up more words, more shapes, and sounded them out in a chatter, part reassuring herself, part preventing his departure. She had thought of putting some potatoes in the oven for supper, for when they had finished picking, but now, would he be back for supper? And it was actually much warmer outside than she had thought, perhaps a salad instead, a couple of hard-boiled eggs, had she seen a tin of anchovies sitting around? And surely it was the wrong time of the year for ice-cream anyway, whatever the weather, because she’d heard the ice-cream van in the village, she just wondered, who would be buying ice-cream when it was nearly November? And, should they get the neighbour round sometime, such an age since they’d had anyone for dinner, and she couldn’t be earning much with her painting, and having to support the boy too, and when was the last time they’d really talked, beyond a cordial passing hello. As for him and her. Them. Us. When was the last time we’d really talked? she wondered. As she spoke his departure presented itself in softer light, she found herself sending her best wishes to Janine, suggesting he take them a loaf of yesterday’s bread, and why not, some jam too. Finally she part persuaded herself he was quite right. Of course he should go to Simon’s. She wasn’t sure she’d manage the apples, but perhaps they could do it together the following weekend? As her words gave way to thoughts he moved out of the shed. She followed. He closed it behind them, and stamped through the gravel to the car, with a cheerio. She turned her eyes from the departing car, towards the village, wondered whether the boy would return soon. Perhaps it was a sort of school girl crush, hers. The glint in his eye.

Thérèse and Isabelle by Violette Leduc (TLS)

23 Tuesday Oct 2012

Posted by the scrivener in Reviews

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Violette Leduc’s novel recounts the brief, but overwhelming, love affair between two girls at a boarding school. Gallimard considered Thérèse et Isabelle too risqué to publish when it was written, in 1954, and despite Leduc’s autobiography La Bâtarde (1964) having drawn praise in French literary circles, the uncensored version did not appear until 2000, twenty-eight years after the author’s death.

The story begins with a dispute. The girls are cleaning their shoes.

I wrench Isabelle’s face around, I dig my fingers in, I stuff the rag blotched with wax, dust and red polish into her eyes, into her mouth; I look at the milky skin inside the collar of her uniform, I lift my hand from her face, I return to my place.

Told in the first person, present tense, and with absorbing attention to detail, the narrative events unfold tantalisingly close to the reader. Leduc expressed her intention to “render as accurately as possible, as minutely as possible, the sensations felt in physical love.”

Her voice is poetic, often broken or exaggerated, and effervescent with imagery.  As the girls are overcome by their feelings, Leduc’s prose echoes the rhythms of their pleasures and angsts, eccentricities and impossibilities.

Isabelle was making my ankles drunk, rotting my knees with ecstasies. I was like a fruit stewed in the heat, I had the same liquorous seeping.

The French are, perhaps, unrivalled in their use of this language of lust and eroticism.  It is therefore a joy to read Sophie Lewis’ impeccable translation. The text reads like a transparent film, as if traced over the French original: Leduc’s exquisite 1954 text trembles just beneath.

The book’s cover-design, featuring a scantily clad girl gazing through a door ajar, depicts the novel as light erotica. Erotica it is. But, of decidedly more interest, is its literary value.   Thérèse and Isabelle is written with unflinching sincerity and Leduc’s progressive attitude and experimental style confirm it as one of the greatest examples of French-language erotic literature.

…

Thérèse and Isabelle by Violette Leduc

Translated by Sophie Lewis

Salammbo Press

978 0 95680 821 9

…

This review was published in the TLS, October 5th 2012.

Tigger

29 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by the scrivener in Writing

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A BOY NAMED TIGGER

This, a tale of a boy named Tigger.  “Tigger” they called him.  Whether after that leaping, lurking tiger creature of the hundred-acre-wood.   Whether because these were the first, the only syllables stumbled over by his unuttering mouth.  Whether… I know not.  Sullen they would have called him.  Silent, isolated, too.  Strange, surely.  Solitary.  They wouldn’t have known of the crowding, calamitous worlds he inhabited: storybook worlds of spirits and souls, goblins and ghouls, of towers, piling staircases and drawbridges, fleets of ships, eagleflocks, islands and mountains.  Sad they said.  They didn’t know…  Nor did I, at first.

A-tapping at the door.  One morning, baking breakfast, my fingers stuck thick in hunks of dough.  A-rapping at the door.  Scrape the gloopy dough from these hardworn fingers that I might answer.  At the door, a-tapping, a-rapping: a boy.  A boy with a tag around his neck.  A boy with a luggage label.  A boy with a message.

MY NAME IS TIGGER
I CAN WORK

That’s how I knew his name.  Speak boy, what’s your tale?  But he doesn’t speak, never spoke.  Where’s your tongue boy?  Smiling and shaking and smiling more.  An imp smile, a pair of imp eyes, smiling too.  Perhaps there was no tongue hinged between the jaws of this luggage-tagged guttersnipe.   Let’s see your hands. Splayed before me his two hands.  Good hands.  Not soft, petal pink, boy hands.  Working hands, gnarling with muscle and knuckle calluses, cracked, solid hands.  Old hands for a kid.  Child eyes, rose cheeks, ravaged hands.  A worker.

Can you:

Sand and splice?  Wax and varnish?  Sew and fold?  Cleat and tack?  Bung and bail?  Uphaul-downhaul-mainsheet-gaff? 

Another smile.  A nod.  Yes.

So, I took him in.  Had no thought of whence he had come, where he would go.  But I was building a boat.  He must have seen the sign.

C. CHANTY

BOATBUILDER

Well kid, Tigger-kid, Tig.  I’m building a boat.   Give me a hand?  Board and lodging plus a dollar a week.  Fortnight trial.  What-d’you-say?  Spot of breakfast?

I put before him a bowl of porridge, orange-pink Papaya and Walnuts to pick at.  A pot of Tangerine Marmalade, made last year from the sunburnt oranges.  For that’s the landscape here:  Papaya trees, summer fronds high as the house, in season the fruit bursting to the ground, the black pips a belly cure.  Mash them up with oats and cinnamon, hill-goat yoghurt, will quieten any stomach, set you regular.  Tangerines, a winter fruit, bitter till the last day, but the birds won’t eat them.  And ‘midst that all:  Walnuts, that homeland tree, growing here in the exotics, it’s bark pale-grey, like elephant-skin.  The Tigger-boy ate on.  Bread in… bread out of the oven.  The boy so intent on eating didn’t hear my talk.  I raised my voice.  Not eaten a while boy?  Like the porridge?  My recipe, Pinhead Oatmeal, imported from Ireland, that ancestral land.  Head down he ate.  Only when I placed the bread on the table his eyes rose and flickered and fluttered.  Slice of bread boy?  Again a nod.

That’s where it began for me.  Boy on my doorstep willing to work.  Tigger-child breaking-fast with the hunger of a gannet.  Gannet-gullet, gannet-gut.  That first day.

OLD MOLLY

My, he could work.  That tiger-boy, of spindly bones.  Straight after breakfast I set him to.  Unsure at first I introduced him to Ol’ Mol’.  Molly my love, my life, first lady-sea-boat ever I built.  Is she seaworthy? I said. What reckon Tig-boy?  Ready her for sea.   First fair wind o’ the season we’ll set her afloat.  It was a test of sorts.  See how the boy works.  See what he knows.  Old Molly is stoic and sturdy as the saltiest seadog.  Been sat in the shed a season.  Hurricanes blowing and old-molly-my-dear quiet in her boathome.  Simply in need of sealing, sinking, floating again.  That, and a clean, her belly winter-home to dust and cobwebs, spiders and woodlice, sometimes mice.

Shaved and shaped that husk of boat, I did.  Carvel-planked, cotton-caulked, gaff rig.  Oak.  Sitka.  Cedar.  Teak.  Twelve foot Dingy.  Oak keel, Sitka planking, Cedar gunwale, Teak top.   Made her up.  Gave her a backbone, some ribs.  Planked and sealed her.  Laid a floor.  Fit in a mast.  Shaped a gaff.  Cut and sewed and seamed a sail.  I made her up.  My first lady.  Made her up myself, with zest and will and above all love.  Oh, and a tiny touch of soul.  Barely twice your age chap, I built this boat.   And she sailed among the best of them.  My first lady, and my last.  Ol’ Mol’.

The boy knew, he saw she was old and loved, and seaworthy as her first day afloat.  He cleaned her first, ran the spiders from their homes, picked their bundled eggs from the wooden nooks.  Laid them, gentle-boy-hands, outside, that the spiders might hatch still and chase the bugs that eat the garden-grown-greens and nature’s game continue.  Dusted and washed and rubbed her dry.  Repolished, recaulked and repainted.  He was one week doing dawn-to-dusk, and worked quiet, his forehead furrowed in concentration.  And when he was done, Ol’ Mol’ was prettiest ever I saw her.  Rekindled my love seeing the aged sealady as she first was.

Boy, you worked mighty, I said.  Mighty boy, that’s mighty work.  First fair wind, I say, we’ll set her afloat, see how she sails.  Seven days you’ve been working lad.  Working and eating the cupboard bare.  But I say, well done!  Your trial’s over, you have done better than ever I hoped.  A dollar I owe you.

Then I saw that boy glow.  His gaze turned again outward from the boat, from the work and from his boy worlds.  He glowed and held out his hand that I might place two fifty cent bits in it.

And, this evening, how-about-a-story?  Some time off.  Have you learnt to read, child?  Know a fellow called Hemingway?  Hem-ing-way.  All prose and pride and preposterous pretensions.  But he wrote one humble book.  A book about a boy and a boat, a man and a Merlin.  A book about the sea.  And if we weren’t so fortunate to have ready trade and cupboards of winter supplies, this could be a tale about us, Tig-child.  A boy and a boat, an old man and a fish.  Will it yet tell our tale?  What is it, boy?   Your eyes are gaping and blinking.  What are you saying?  Not yet do I understand your silent speech.  Books, boy.  You read?  You like books?

Seems I’ve fished something bigger than I first thought.  Seems the kid is smarter than his tongueless mouth gives to think.  Work he can.  Worldly too.  Dollars he likes.  Praise as well.  Yet, I saw something else in his eyes just now.  Sets me talking to him, telling him…

Before I built boats I worked with books.  I was a libraryman.  What’s that look?  Not told you.  No.  You don’t speak, thought you didn’t read.  Before I became a solitary soul, I was the social sort.  Those days I worked with books and boated for joy.  Now I work with boats, and the odd day I stop, I pick up a book.  What?  Not seen the books?  No.  Not a book in the house.

Well, look you, step outside.  Now, skin your eyes, stretch your gaze one hundred paces yonder.  To the Papaya plantation.  See?  See that hulking lumbering ruin.  North side.  Plant covered.  Ivy clad.  Honeysuckle, Clematis, Wisteria-bound.  Bound by Bindweed, Beanstalks, every trailing winding, roping plant, wrapping round the tower, binding it together.  That’s the Library, Tig.

Care to venture over?

THE LIBRARY

As we stumbled over, old and young, I told him my tale.  Not all of it.  It’s a long and rambling tale and would fast bore a kid were I to tell it start to finish.

This silent chap never answers back, he swallows my words deep in him.  I like talking to him.  But I wonder what he does with the words filling him up.   Like a sponge will he saturate, like a bucket overflow?  I told the child of my coming to this vast place.  Oversea.  From a tiny, tidy Irish landscape, of, I still see it, round green sheepshorn hills, earthen tracks, rockwalls, whitewashed cottages, smoke from burning peat flecking the skies.  From there, where my eyes and feet knew every crevice, every shape and stumble in the hills and roads and rivers.  From that land where people still sang and stood in the bars over beer reciting poems and dreaming of dragons and republics… to here, where bare’ a person lived, and those that did, well, they had the English words, but not the books, not the tales, not the songs and lores.

I didn’t bring the religion.  What’s one God over another, or none at all?  But I brought the words.  My own religion, I suppose. I didn’t know it then.  Of course, I did know it too, been reciting John 1 since a child.  In the beginning was the word.  Know that one, boy?  A fine piece.  And the Word was God.  I was a wandering, dreaming boy with a love of books and a love of words.  The people liked the books I brought, they liked the stories. Here, they were a new people.  We Irish were new too.  I knew what that meant – newness.  It meant to write and speak in a new language.  Lost was the language of the land, the words whittled of the woods, the syllables shaped of the husks and tusks of the landscape.  The new language was a tongue of elsewhere, of others.  It’s to do with being colonised.  But that’s talk for another day.

The people came to read my books.  So I brought more. I would go inland to forage any I could.  But the only stories that reached these parts were of the Wild West and of Indians.  I wanted the real tales, the earthy, arty tales of my people.  I set up a correspondence with a bookseller in Dublin city, had monthly parcels of books shipped over.

Imagine. Not only the Irish books, but the Europeans, the Americans.  From tales of pagan yore and ye olde poetry, through flowery tomes and fantastical novels, to modernist dystopias and minimalist new releases.  The people here, they could understand the stuff.  Better than ever we could.  It was as if they began to understand their own language.  They were hungering, losing their God, losing their soul, ebbing away.  They needed a beyond, an elsewhere.  Books gave them that.  They learnt to dream again.  They learnt to believe again.  They read like never I had seen anyone read.  They read for the stories, yes.  But they also read for the sounds in their mouths.  Out loud ticking the syllables through their throats, against their teeth, widening their jaws to pronounce the most banal of words, vowels sitting soft on their tongues…

We met on Sundays.  Sat in a circle the morning on the earth, or in the kitchen when the weather was wild.  Read to one another.  They played the sounds through their throats again and again.  And we laughed.  And maybe it was love.  A sort of love.  Dare I say it, people flocked.   Moved closer, built stilted houses from driftwood or planks hauled off wrecked boats, fringed the roofs with palms.  The town grew.  The number of books grew.  I built a tower to store the books.  Had some fellows help.  We brought stone from far away.  Built the tower tall as we could, winding and shelved.  Shelves built like boats, steambent to wrap up along the inside of the tower.  And I started to loan out the books. Maybe I got greedy.  Dollar a loan.  Things changed, then.  The people stopped believing.  That’s yet another story.

In the end I was forced to shut the books away.  I closed the library.  Put a lock on the door and locked it with a key.  Sat alone beside it one last long day and wished and wished and wished every plant would bind it, grow tall all over it, wrap it in their green.  Lose it.  Lock it in.  No one was to enter.  The people left.  Quick as they’d drifted in, they drifted away.  Those that remained took up fishing.  I built boats.  Alone once more.   And the tower stood, a monument to books, to stories.  A monument to how they changed the people here.  For better.  And then for worse.  All of us.  Now I am careful with the key.  Sometimes myself I read.  The plants did bind the tower.  But not to lock it, simply so as to hold it together, that it might never fall.  And, strangest thing: they never grew over the door.  The lock never rusted.  The library never really closed.

Here we are: The Library.

THE OLD MAN AND THE SEA

The lock was hard to turn.  But it did and the boy and I pushed in.  How long was it since I had last ventured inside?  The first gaze was stifling as dust rose in the air.  But light shone down from the gaping globe at the ceiling and fell, spreading like sun’s rays to the floor, revealing the shelves still wrapping around the interior walls, the ladders still standing, still reaching to the highest levels, and the books.  The books looked, they looked well.  As if preserved in this towering cavern wound with plants.

I turned to the boy, he was spluttering and stuttering beside me.  What was it?  The dust? A sort of asthma?  I looked in his face.  In his eyes there were tears, but he was smiling and he looked to me and edged to near the shelves. Of course, I said. Go, look.  Go to H.  A B C D E F G H.  There.  Up towards the middle, northern curve.  You can climb.  H-eming-way.  Slim volume:  The Old Man and the Sea.

And I thought, for the very first time I thought:  Who is this boy?  Whence does he come?  How old is he? Does he like to read?

That evening, to the last of the season’s light, I read The Old Man and the Sea, start to finish.  I perched on the edge of a ladder, the boy crouched at my feet listening.  Man and boy, each entranced.  I wondered again whether there was more to this choice of book.  Were we alike, that man and me, that boy and this?

Right Tig.  A bite to eat then time for bed.   I’ve a plan for you, locktongued ragamuffin.  You’re in luck fellow.  And first, I say, we’ll toast you.  A bottle of my bittersweet Tangerine Wine.  Follow me.

In near darkness we forayed back across the winddried land to the house, and first to the coldstore to dig out one of the brews.  Tangerine seemed to have sunk into the cobweb black depths at the back of the store, so we settled for Dandelion.  Gold hued, sharp, dry, diuretic, a Winter cure-all, a Summer detox.  Dashed some eggs in the oven, rolled out some flatbreads, to eat with yogurt, Chives, Ramsons, Jack-by-the-hedge, Sorrel, my shaded backdoor herbs.  While the eggs baked we sat on the doorstep, the boy and I.  We toasted his work with Dandelion wine.  We toasted the last sun, pink, was the fair weather coming? We toasted the first star, and we toasted my plan.

It seems, o-boy-o, you were brought here by fortune.  Fortune’s boy turned up a-tapping at my door.  I’ve seen you work, seen you’re skilled.  I’m not asking whence you came, nor who you are.  To me you’re Tigger, brought on a wave of fortune.  You haven’t a tongue, seems.  That’s fine by me.  Types like yours are special types.  A gift, or gifted.  Should ha’ seen that, you came wrapped like a parcel on my doorstep.  You’ve shown your mettle.  You’re good with wood.  You’re strong.  And, you’re humble, boy.  Now Tig-kid, I’ve a plan for you.

Seems to me you like a book, a story.  Makes me wonder…  Those silent dreamworlds inside you me think, maybe they’re books you read, or maybe they’re stories you tell yourself.   Sad I am that library I built is shut.  What are books that can’t be read, they’re like tales that can’t be told.  I think you know about that, child.  I’ve gone too far in, and now I’m too far out.  But you.  Take the key.  Wear it round your neck, like you turned up, luggage-tagged at my door.  Dust, clean, polish the library.  Go through the books for woodworm and lice, chase out the spiders, beetles and crabs.  Repair the ladders, mend the shelves.  Paint, polish, sand and caulk.  The skylight is a porthole, took her off a shoreblown wreck, give her a clean.  Let in the light!

I hadn’t seen his face but I felt by his stillness that he would, and that he understood.

Take your time over it Tig-boy.  When it’s ready we can decide if we open it to others. Now let’s eat those eggs and to bed.

TIGGER

The winds whirled round the house last night.  I felt it swing.  I felt it spin.  The old man says the fair season is coming.  In his strange tongues I hear him rhythm: The fair season is coming and with that forage and fruit.  The fair season, forage and fruit.  Fair season and forage.  Fair season and fruit.  He talks like a song and sometimes I don’t hear the words, only the sounds.  Sometimes he is blowing a flute in my head.  Sometimes he is knocking on the keys of a piano in my head.  I feel the house swing, and spin, and I think:  old man, all this talk of fair weather to come, do you notice the weather now?  Barrelling through the yard, round and round the house.  Every morning out the door it’s a new land, windshaped.  Maybe he’s protected from the weather, maybe he doesn’t feel it.  The house swinging and spinning, I think of the library.  Stonetower.  The only stone building ever I see.  There’s no stone here.  Sand and dust and salt.  I smell the salt off the sea.  We never go to the sea.  All these strange plants he gets growing.  Never see them either.  Barren land, all these stinking green herbs.  Maybe they’re protected from the weather too.  A tower wound with Wisteria, a plant from novels.  And at my neck, the key.

THE TOWER

Oy Tig-kid, where you been?  Breakfast on the table, no sign in the house.  Been out already to the tower?  Ah.  Good on you, kid.  Now get that porridge into you or you’ll waste away.

Paid him a dollar a week.  He was fed, had a bed.  His work meticulous, A to Zed.  Shelf by shelf, author by author.  Left him to, most the time. Too much for me. Sometimes I spotted a book crammed in his pocket.  But most seems, if he read, he read there.  Wasn’t long before his bedclothes disappeared from the room.  Saw he was sleeping in the tower.  Shoved over a few books, curled up on a shelf.  Not a fear of falling.  Liked the height.  That Tigger boy is a Monkey boy.  He fixed the wooden ladders, gave them a sand and a varnish.  He made some of rope ladders.  Old warps, bound and spliced.  Colourful cobwebs stretching between the shelves.   He sleeps on a different shelf each night.  He’s a sea kid.  Not a tiger-child, a seafarer I’d wager.  I’ll show that kid to weave a hammock.  If he doesn’t know already.  Save him sleeping on the shelves.

Burnt-shell lime he whitewashed the walls.  Laid decking on the sand floor.  Left the plants binding the library, but found the other portholes, at different heights in the tower, cleared them of greenery.  Let in the light.  Say he’d been at it no more than a month.  Already made of the library the finest ship ever I’d seen.

When the weather comes I’ll take him to the shore.

TIGGER

The shelf of H. Aitch.  Aitch for the old man and the sea, the old man and me.  I am spider.  I weave webs between the walls.  I walk along these webs from shelf to shelf.  It’s like the old man said, some books are stories, other books are sounds.  Sometimes I read the noisy ones and I feel sound urging on my tongue.  Syllables skittering at my throat.  That’s why I read alone.  Nobody hears my sounds.  I live in the tower of stone.  It is my shell.  I am a snail and I curl into these spiralling shelves.  When the wind blows the tower does not spin.  It is still.  The plants are its cloak.  It is a wizard in a cloak and I am in the wizard’s belly. When I read, I am.  I am many.  I am the old man.  And I am the boy.  And I am the fish.  And I am the sea.  Sometimes I am a stone, and when I am a stone I am also a wall and when a wall, a tower.  And sometimes I am a tower, and when I am a tower, I am a city.  When I am a stone, I am shingle, I am a beach, I am a storm defence.  I am sea and sky.  I am sames and opposites.  Nobody knows I am everything and everyone.  I don’t tell.  For them I am a boy.  For me I am them.  Sometimes the old man knows.  He says I’m not a tiger.  I am.  He says I’m a monkey.  I am.

PRIMROSES

Tig-kid! Lost in thought?  He of always-pricked-up-ears?  Didn’t hear me enter?  What-oh Tig?  Come down a moment from your polishing and shining and alphabeticising.  Come away a moment from your dream kingdoms.  So Tig, I sense a change in the weather.  A lull.  A loll.  A something warmer breezing through.  What say you? Do you feel it?  A shimmer of sunlight.  Come.  The first shimmer of spring.  To pick Primroses, the very first roses.  A special spot, at the feet of the Papaya.  They open their petals and close them before the Papaya is in thick leaf.  With it we shall make wine, that medicinal brew, and, on the first day of picking, we shall eat them sugar-battered.

Today boy-o is a celebratory day!

He took my hand.  That lost and found Tigger-child.  True, was indeed the first sunshimmer, springshimmer.  On reaching the plantation, Primroses were peeking, pricking through at the Papaya feet.  Clearings were rife, ripe with this auspicious homeflower.  Seeds, shipped over once upon a time, and nurtured and wished and wished and wished upon, that they might grow here too.

When our baskets, pockets, hands were overflowing with flowerheads we walked home.  As we walked I felt a change in the boy.

That evening with wrinkled fingers I showed the boy to weave a hammock. Take boatropes, any.  Those coiled on themselves on the workshop shelves.  Tie them to make them long.  Strings that are uphauls, downhauls, kicking straps, ties.  Secure them first and then with many fingers weave and knot many strings to shape a bed.  First widening, widening, like a belly, boatbelly, whalebelly, then tightening, tightening to secure the far end.  The mass of strings will make a bed. Had him scrunched on a terribly tall stool in the kitchen weaving.  Boy woven in boatropes.  Boy entwined in his work.  Boy lost again to his boyworlds.

While he worked I prepared the Primroses.  A glass each of last season’s last Primrose Wine.  And a detailed commentary, that he too might one day sugar the first flowers.

So Tigger, of splendid name and too few words.  Listen while you weave, that the sacred art of sugaring Primrose petals might be your art too.

But here, an instant, I started.  I heard myself and thought, a mere instant:  was I making of this mute child an apprentice?  A son?  Passing on my skills, my words.  That I might leave this world and this tonguetied fellow continue my way?  But I left the thought there, wary of it.

Primroses are sunflowers, they are beckoned by the warming of the earth and the waking of the first sun. Their golden faces, their five petals, are solar images, suns rays.  The recipe is as follows:

1)    Beat the white of an egg to a cloud. 

2)    With this skyfroth paint the sunyellow petals.  These sunlit heads are delicate, the white of the egg must not burden but embrace them, as clouds embrace the sun, a spring day. 

3)    For this use a paintbrush.  Goathair, first moult, gathered on a stick.  Thus. 

4)    Or, on occasions, a quill plucked from a spring-returning swallow. Bird lighter than air, whose arrival, in my western clime, signifies the start of the season. 

5)    Still wet from the eggfroth, dip the flower in sugar that the white takes the sweetness like a cloud does a silverlining.

6)    These, the sunflowers bedecked in their silverlined clouds.  Lay them on a tray and place again in the last sunshine.  So that the heat and air dries them crisp, and makes of them the most startling and precious floral sweets.  As I am now doing.

7)    By next morn’, blessed by a warm night, the sweetened sunjewels are ready.

SHIPPING FORECAST

Before sending you to your booktower to bed.  A feeling tomorrow’s set to be a long day.  I think we can catch the midnight shipping forecast.  It’s a sort of tradition I have, when spring arrives.

Dear old radio hummed and whirred and span to Longwave.  Just in time, just the same atonal voice.  Oh music, oh poetry!

The shipping forecast issued by the Met Office on behalf of the Maritime and Coastguard Agency//There are warnings of gales in Biscay, FitzRoy//The general synopsis at midnight//Low southeast Ireland 1003 moving slowly east losing its identity by midnight tonight/Low west Fitzroy 1010 expected northeast France 999 by same time/New low expected German Bight 996 by that time//The area forecasts for the next 24 hours//Viking, North Utsire, South Utsire, Forties, Cromarty, Forth, Tyne/Northerly 4 or 5/Slight or moderate/Rain or showers/Moderate or good//Fisher/Southerly or southwesterly 4 or 5, becoming cyclonic 5 to 7/Slight or moderate/Rain or thundery showers/Moderate or good, occasionally poor//Humber/Cyclonic 5 or 6, becoming northwesterly 4 or 5/Slight or moderate/Rain or showers/Moderate or good//Thames, Dover, Wight/Southwesterly 5 to 7, veering northwesterly 4 or 5/Moderate, occasionally rough at first/Showers, becoming thundery/Moderate or good, occasionally poor//Biscay/West or southwest, 5 to 7. Moderate or rough/Rain then thundery showers/Good, occasionally poor//FitzRoy/Variable 4 in north at first, otherwise westerly or southwesterly 5 to 7, occasionally gale 8 in southeast. Moderate or rough. Rain then showers. Moderate or good, occasionally poor.//Irish Sea/Cyclonic in southeast until later, otherwise northeasterly backing northwesterly, 4 or 5/Occasionlly rough in south/Rain or showers/Moderate or good, occasionally poor//Shannon/Cyclonic in south at first, otherwise northerly 4 or 5, occasionally 6 later/Moderate/Rain or showers/Moderate or good//

Listening the boy sank inside himself, his eyes misty, gazeless.  Strange child, I smiled.  Perhaps he hears the music in this forecast much as I do.  Perhaps it is poetry for him too.  Perhaps it’s that Primrose Wine!  Now, enough, to bed for us both.

FIRST ROSE

He slept that night on his handwoven hammock strung from the bookshelves.  First sleep on first homemade hammock.  At dawn, a glance of sun, I called him up and to the boatshed.

Hup! Up boy, up!  This is the boat I’ve been building while I had you restore the library.  Sterling job you’ve done, might I say, and quite the finest library e’er espied.  While you worked your little manhands at that literary obra maestra.  I put my fumbling fingers to what will likely be their last work.  Here, under this draped cloth, she lies.  Sixteen footer.  Sixteen foot, small currach.  One man boat, will take two.  Light, that one alone might carry her.  Plank-built, skin-covered.  Might look a simple piece, but these are quite the stablest, sturdiest rowboats.  They’ll take you through seas roaring with waves.  Have to learn to handle them.  Isn’t easy, mind.  No keel, they seem to swing and wobble with the swell.  But, back home they’d cross the sea with sheep and pigs aboard, firewood kept dry out to the islands and back.  No bother explaining it all, it’s a boat you learn to master by feel.

This boat is your boat.   Didn’t know that when I was building her.  Nor why I was building her.  But yesterday picking Primroses it came to me. The boat will be for the boy, I thought.  And with it came a name. The boat will be called “First Rose”.  Now kid, as she is your boat, you must take a brush… Here, a swallow quill, very apt, and christen her with her name: FIRST ROSE.

The boat named.  With that, both giddy, we pocketed the Primrose sweets, crisp in the warm morning air.  We walked out, nibbling on our way, to the shore.  To the sea.

THE SHORE

We walked out.  Tigger-child and I.  Northeast.  Seaward.  Past the tower we walked, through the Papaya plantation, the sky crosshatched with first leaf fronds, scattering shards of sunlight over our heads and hands, over the Primroses between our feet, sun scattering over the first springfloor leafshapes.

On reaching the far side of the plantation, I noticed the seaward Papayas in fuller bloom.

To my mind boy, those shrunken corollas hung ‘twixt Papaya leaf…seems to me child that they are flowerbuds, budding of flowers, and what giveth flowers?  Flowers give fruit.  This gives hope for a fruitful season, a season of plentiful fruit.

Away from the corollas I swung my eyes seaward.  When had I last looked out so?  First the horizon stretching, opening our gaze, and above, slumping along the stretch of the horizon… Oh dread.  A fret hanging.  Billowing like grey smoke, from the horizon I could see it rising – weather.

Darn it.  A fret.  See it?  That which looks like smoke, blackened, dreaded, of tyres burning or similar ghastly sort, is a fret.  We’ve walked out now, best keep on.  Darn forecast.  Can’t be blamed however.  Weather in Ireland is often different to our own.  Must let you know, these frets can sudden fall upon you.  Cling, clasp around your ankles, wreath around your neck, shorten your breath.  Like the fog once in the hills at home.  Sink in mist and there is no seeing your own feet.  Be warned boy.  Weather can be frightful terrifying on these shores.  That said.  On occasion, on better occasions, sun burns it off, wind blows the fret elsewhere.  On these occasions the fret falls, fails becomes light pleasant whisps floating from your fingers and you can look again on the sea.

We walked on.  The landscape was bare, treeless beyond the plantation.  Changed and yet never changed.  We walked upon large flat grey stones, warming with the new season.  Low level plants, there were a few.  Cactus.  Semper vivum.  Stone Crop.  We walked further and the stones shrunk and plants struck up between them, SeaHolly, Thrift, Marron grass…I blessed each leaf for returning with the season, as I too was returning.  The mild saltiness of the air was suddenly exacerbated in a seablown blast. Seasalt, full in our breath, our bellies.  Our nostrils charged with the ever closer sea air.  And I looked to Tigger.

Tig-child!  Your eyes are bulbous like frogs or geckos, your nostrils snarling.  But, I think, you are happy?  Aye?  You, as I, we are part sea-creatures.  Sea-mammals, we thrive on sea air.  Mudlarks, Sandlarks we are.  We walk and pluck and peck of the sand and the shore.  But, I am tiring.  Why?  Never has this journey felt so far.  Always whisked to the shore by joy, anticipation, what be.  Not so today.  I am content.  But weary.  I see you bristling, quivering as if awakening.  Were I of mystic ilk I might imagine you were about to speak… But I, I am no longer fit for this trip.  Once only I shall take you.  Thenceforth Tig-child you shall take yourself.  You and the FIRST ROSE. The first visit to the shore in season is a ritual, a rite. Much like these Primrose sweets sticking in my pocket.  The first visit foresees the year ahead, gives guidance as to the coming seasons…

Before us barely distinguishable the sky, the sea, the shore, greys and blacks muddling.

This child: the shore!

And this: the sea!

This haze unlifting is bearer of many omens.  In it I read an end.  An end writes a beginning.  Was same haze in which I failed to read my downfall.  But since, the seasons have continued bringing with them beginnings.  And now you boy.  A beginning.  See.  See: the sea.  Still and black.  Rare ’tis that the sea be so still.  But this too is writing out the next months.  Still equates stagnancy.  Stagnancy oft’ before a Storm.  Shadow is sometimes shelter, othertimes darker forces. Wind presupposes change…but when the wind changes hold not a frown for it will freeze and stick to your face thereafter.  Smile with the wind.  Smile with change.  Sun, if it shows, is the most auspicious of signs.  But I must sit.  Find myself a seat, a boulder and sit on it.  I must watch this sea so still.  Watch the fret, does it lift or fall?  Watch for birds.  Watch for wind or sun.  Watch for change.

TIGGER

I can slip off my sandals and scuttle like shorecrabs over the shores.  The seawaves are flat but I see them rolling in sideways, crabways, patterned along the shore.  I am a crab.  I scuttle sideways with the seawaves.  At the sea the stones get smaller and smaller until just at the point where the sea froths on the shore, the stones are sand.  I am a boy and I scrunch my toes in the wet sand.  I am a boy and I feel I can scream and screech and shriek and squeal and sing.  I am a boy and I pick along the edges of the seaswell until I find a shell.  It is a singing shell.  A shell I hold to my ear, and it sings like sometimes the old man sings.  He sings like the sea and like a shell.  I hear him when he is working and it is whirling foaming song like the sea.  And it is whirling foaming song like my voice, carried on my blood seeping through my fingers, seeping to my toes.  Blood-carried-voice ebbing and foaming and whirling in my body held.  Like the voice held in this shell.  But if you listen very carefully, hold it very close to your ear; you can hear the shell’s voice.  Can you hear mine if you listen this carefully, this close?  Has this shell half my voice?  I shall take this shell with me and rub it and rub it and it will release my whole voice and I shall catch it and swallow it and then I shall speak.  I am Aladdin.

Cormorant!

Gannet!

Far off I hear the old man croak from his stone seat.  He is sat on a stone, seaman, seabeard.  Cocooned, wrapped in the air, the air is waving, wrapping around him.  Crowning him with smoky seafret.  He is Neptune, Poseidon.  Seaking and merman.  His voice is slow and solid like soft stones thrown in to the flat air.  He is naming the birds.  But his voice is going quiet.  This air is gentle and soft.  This air doesn’t throw sounds like sharp pebbles, like the wild winter winds.  It holds them, fat and flat and then they plop, soft.  It holds sounds, and it holds me.  In this still thick air I too am cocooned.  He keeps telling me about the birds but his voice is disappearing.  Then I see them.  I see the birds coming.  Cormorant first.  Old black hag.  Old black lady of the sea, he says.  The cormorants fly and they make the air move and they make the sea move, and then they settle, on what is a large black rock, suddenly appearing.  They stop there and peg out their wings to dry.  There is still a moment.

Then the gannets come.  In pairs.  The gannets are huge and white with black wingtips.  And I can no longer hear the man and I do not know if he is talking, for the gannets with their long wings, are beating the air and beating the sea.  In pairs flying, beating.  The air and the sea are bursting with Gannet sound, pair after pair after pair, hundreds, thousands of big gannet pairs.  And my head is beating and beating and I feel the air pulling at my hands and the sea writhing at my feet, pulling and dragging.  My eyes are pushed open by the air but I cannot see any longer and my ears are thudding and I am gasping and I must be sobbing but then something much bigger happens:  I can feel the air pulling, pulling at the songshell tight in my hands.  My voice shell.  It pulls and pulls and wrenches it from my hands and then my eyes open and I see the shell fall and crack on the gurgling sea.  It cracks, splits open and from it bursts a sound, a screeching sound from the shell rising lifting to the air to fill all the air and I feel my blood and my body cracking open bursting forth like the shell and I feel sound in me rising, and I scream.

HOMEWARD

Not a scream, child. ‘Twas a song.  Beautiful, raucous like the weather.  Then you dropped to the ground and the sea withdrew and the weather withdrew.   You fell asleep.  I’ve been a while waking you!  You sang.  Perhaps you took my voice, cracking it now is.  But I needn’t talk more.  Nor you.  You needn’t say anything.  You needn’t tell me your story.  But you have a voice.  Perhaps one day you will tell another, tell others.

Let us walk home.  I shall lie down then.  For, seems, a last time.  Tomorrow you will put me in the ground.  You will decide whether to stay.  Take on my house, land, the tower.  Or whether you will go onward.  Or perhaps board First Rose and take to the seas.  Is of no vital import.  Enough said.

Now, dear Tigger-child, homeward!

…

A story written for a friend called Theo.  Inspiration for the characters was drawn from that highly inspirational novel, The Bone People by Keri Hulme.

Swimming Home – Deborah Levy – Longlisted for the Man Booker prize

29 Sunday Jul 2012

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She was not a poet. She was a poem.

Deborah Levy’s Swimming Home, one of And Other Stories 2011 titles, has been longlisted for the 2012 Man Booker Prize. I reviewed the book here, when it was originally published.

It is both a joy and a shock that a literature and a publisher that slip outside of the mainstream be included in the longlist for the Booker prize; one hopes it is a symbol of recognition from the Booker committee of the other literature, the other stories. Below, a few words about the publisher, and an abridged review of Levy’s novel.
…

And Other Stories is shaping a novel space and a novel place in the literary world. Based on subscriptions and run by a handful of literary translators it is carving a passage into contemporary literary parlance independent of bestseller lists and bookseller magazines. In a world where literature is so governed by those, by money and the mass-market, it is a delight to come across a publishers dedicated to other literature, other stories. Let’s hope And Other Stories heralds the possibility of more such small presses, vital for the diversification and vivacity of contemporary literature.

There is no way you can send a fierce, exotic and brutally truthful hot head novel out into the British rain in a recession and expect a deal to be on the table with the scones, tea and Daily Mail. Editors are struggling with a toxic, cynical market of celebrity best sellers and even the braver ones are nervous. Contemporary readers are much more sophisticated than the whole mainstream publishing scene right now. There is a big counter-culture in the UK but it’s in the visual arts, music and performance, not in literature. There is a huge untapped market for experimental literary fiction.
(Deborah Levy, Dalkey Archive Press)

What And Other Stories stands for in the publishing world, Levy stands for in the literary world. Brave, inventive, original, her written tongue is raw and unrehearsed. Her writing, refusing conventional plot and character development, has the marks of the nouveau-roman, seen in the shattered characters, the deconstructed spaces and the flawlines rendered evident. In these flaws and edges, in the seams, lies something inherently human, rippling with nerves, tender and hard-hitting. Levy’s writing teeters on the brink of life, dreamy, dark, unnerving, it is literature à vif.

Thus: Swimming Home, Deborah Levy’s novel.

As each of us might quest, crave a meeting with that other, interlocutor, mirror… As in poetry, art and literature, one might, in a voice, a gathering of words, an image, come upon one’s self and one’s own experience… As a written voice can nudge up to us, so close… As through reading one can meet, commune with that other… So Kitty Finch arrives at the house where poet Joe Jacobs is holidaying with his family and some friends. Kitty’s arrival, at first disguised as an error of double-booking, is in fact a contrived meeting with the poet.

So you’ve read all my books and now you’ve followed me to France.

The title of the novel is the title of the poem Kitty, botanist of green-painted-nails offers, in conversation, with poet Joe Jacobs. We never read the poem, backbone of the novel, but understand from the poet that:

Her words were all over the place, swimming round the edges of the rectangle of paper, sometimes disappearing altogether, but coming back to the centre of the lined page with its sad and final message.

Indeed, same words could be used to describe the touch with which the book itself is crafted.

The poet’s daughter, Nina, sneaks a read of the poem herself and concludes: Kitty is going to drown herself in our pool. The first image of Kitty Finch in the pool, floating, swimming naked underwater, her long hair floating like seaweed at the sides of her body, thus becomes a premonition of what will likely be the final image, swimming home. And yet what is written in the poem is unwritten and the final passages defy both the readers’ and the characters’ expectations. As Nina looks closer at the body in the pool:

All the noise that was her father, all the words and spluttering utterances inside him, had disappeared into the water.

As Kitty Finch’s arrival amongst this group of characters reveals their inner-workings to themselves, and breaks through the eminently human falsehoods woven into life, thus Levy’s narrative voice affects literature. The marginal figure of Kitty Finch, impossible to ignore, echoes Levy’s style of writing which renders transparent, challenges complacency and refuses comfort. Replete with repeating images and ideas echoing, mirroring one another, with those coincidences, those accidents that make up the thread of life, entwined with humour and poignancy, Levy writes the frail complexity of human-nature with visionary insight and literary innovation.

I know what you’re thinking. Because we hope it will get better and we’ll all get home safely. But you tried and you did not get home safely. You did not get home at all. That is why I am here Jozef. I have come to France to save you from your thoughts.

…
Swimming Home by Deborah Levy
Published by And Other Stories, 2011
ISBN: 978-1-908276-02-5

The Natural Explorer by Tristan Gooley (TLS)

20 Sunday May 2012

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BOOK REVIEW

Following on from his previous, more utilitarian, The Natural Navigator, in The Natural Explorer Gooley pleads his case for ‘the new explorer’.  “In this new age neither physical extremes nor those of vainglory are prerequisite, only heightened awareness and honest expression”.   His method?  “Reaching back to the many who had the spirit in years gone by and out to the few who have held on to it”.  So Gooley introduces the reader to a quixotic collection of explorers that they too might learn the art.

The structure of the book is aligned according to a modest walk, which Gooley narrates, through the Sussex countryside.  Each prosaic passage gives rise to a new chapter and theme.  Thirty chapters, crammed into 300 pages, study subjects from the scientific “The Earth” to the philosophical “Inner Time and Mood” via the less obvious “Worldly Goods”.

Gooley is fascinating as historian; he tells tales of scientific wonder and geographical discovery.  Each themed chapter, complete with illustrations, maps, diagrams and literary quotations, stands alone as a mini-museum in tribute to exploration.  With a collector’s eccentricity he combines the extraordinary with the arbitrary, whisking the reader through notions of ‘The Noble Savage’, stories of the honey-diviner bird, and the invention of the ‘cyanometer’, instrument used to measure the ‘blueness’ of the sky.

The main cast of explorers, numbering barely twenty, includes Darwin, Alexander von Humboldt and Henry David Thoreau.  But the characters featuring in this book number many more.  While this array impresses, the grandeur of the figures that populate the book detracts from the sense of Gooley’s trudge through the countryside, rendering the main theme tangential.  The intellectual promiscuity, displayed by insistent references to other explorers and other places, does not enlighten but undermine this ‘new explorer’.  Gooley would have better served his end by honing down his troop of players, and concentrating his gaze on the land.

For, he reads the landscape with a genuine perceptiveness.  “Beaches are vast graveyards of rocks and animals that have lived and died in company with the waves”.  Ancient woodland is telling as to the soil beneath: “these forests have survived by clinging to land no farmer wants”.   These reflections are more in tune with the new explorer Gooley heralds: a humble character, mindful, and curious about his surroundings.

…

The Natural Explorer by Tristan Gooley

Published by Sceptre
978 1 4447 2031 0

…

This review appeared in the TLS, May 11 2012.

A Stricken Field by Martha Gellhorn (TLS)

25 Wednesday Apr 2012

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Martha Gellhorn’s first full length novel was published in 1940 and recounts a week spent by Mary Douglas, a war correspondent, in Prague, in 1938, during the German occupation of Czechoslovakia. There are two strings to the narrative. The first details the wide-eyed, impassioned gaze of this journalist on a city teeming with lifeless people, “like old bundles of gray cloth”. The second, the love story of communists Rita and Peter.  This, the novel’s core, despite playing out the hackneyed theme of the struggle of love in a climate of war, reads as terribly fragile, poignant against the austere backdrop.

This plot is caught up within another, less grandiose, equally tragic:  the dilemmas of a journalist, unable to affect change in a landscape heavy with injustice.  Journalist and communists’ shared cause stands in contrast to the somewhat seedy glamour of the group of “bright and dispassionate” other hacks reporting there. These, “the usual camp followers of catastrophe” and the novelist figure peddling others’ tales:  “hearing a name, that meant a face, a story, something you could store up and later alter in your imagination, until it had a shape”, divulge something of the author’s own insecurities.  As journalist, and novelist, these characters parody aspects of Gellhorn’s own.  This self-consciousness reveals itself in an offhand jibe at Mary Douglas.  “You’re wasting yourself in this business.  If I were a woman, and looked like you, I’d marry for money.  It’s only sensible.”

A Stricken Field sometimes reads like a series of newspaper reports, scenes glimpsed and tacked one to another. But Gellhorn’s forte lies in reporting the small narratives behind the headlines, so, in this novel she gives voice to the unheard. She depicts the houses of refugees “furnished with still bodies”, as if on canvas: “people painted against the walls, growing from the floor, the woman with one hand on her hip as if she had always been standing in just that position”. Gellhorn as novelist is able to dwell on situations, to write with a slower, more intimate gaze.

Underlying Mary Douglas’ finally futile efforts to affect change, Rita and Peter’s tragic finale, are Gellhorn’s own frustrations.  In the afterword, dated 1985, she says of A Stricken Field: “I wrote out the accumulated rage and grief of the past two years in this one story, one small aspect of the ignoble history of our time.”

…

A Stricken Field by Martha Gellhorn

Republished by Chicago Press, 2011
Originally published 1940

978 0 22628 696 9

…

This review appeared in the TLS, April 20 2012

The Brothers by Asko Sahlberg (Peirene)

16 Friday Mar 2012

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BOOK REVIEW

…

And I was not particularly surprised that this time there was a weary, vacant look in Henrik’s eyes.  Time had clearly caught up with him.  He had tried to stay ahead of it by rushing from one town to another, but though his simple cart had transformed into a carriage and screeching prostitutes had become bourgeois ladies from Stockholm, time had at last got the better of him and disclosed to him the permanence of his destiny, its inexorability: he was still the same man who had first been cheated of a horse and then of a woman. 

In The Brothers, Finnish writer Asko Sahlberg conjures a nineteenth century drama that is as deftly modern as it is richly archaic.  This, the first of the Peirene Press series of the Small Epic, measuring a mere 122 pages, is an epic indeed.  Set on a farm in Finland, the return of one of the brothers gives rise to a hefty family dispute.

I have barely caught the crunch of snow and I know who is coming.  Henrik treads heavily and unhurriedly as is his wont, grinding his feet into the earth.

The story of two brothers, Henrik and Erik, is narrated through a series of monologues that unveil the events of the past and lead to the eventual dénouement.   There are six voices: their own, and that of The Farmhand, the Old Mistress, Anna, Erik’s wife and Mauri, a relative, who fought with Erik in the war.  These tongues rise from a land bereft of artifice.  The backdrop, a wasted Scandinavian environment, is thick with snow in the depths of winter.  This setting is intrinsic to the narrative:  As the landscape is austere, so are the voices.  Like the landscape, they are purged of artifice, unperturbed by superflu, startlingly direct.   Although set in the nineteenth century, the narrative style is so paired down, so clean it feels immediately modern.

Yet, Sahlberg has set this tale in a land and age where the language of people and the earth can rise unperturbed by the chaos of the contemporary era.  Modern, but also ancient, earthy.   There is an overwhelming sense of engagement with the landscape: the characters are shapely as the land, their ‘speech tells you they have rough palms’, they are but playthings of the elements:

Nature toys with humans, pokes fun at us.  It is a grim game in general, as when frost hits the fields, or a river floods, or a thunderbolt strikes a man dead.  At times one feels as if the earth were waging a war against men, along with the sky, the winds and of course the snow.  A human being puts up a fight as best he can, but he might as well throw himself down and wait for the axe to fall.  

Nordic, flash with fights, with lust, with war, gaming debts and family secrets,  The Brothers is made of dramatic and grandiose stuff.  It is deserving of fringed velvet curtains, the clamour of crowds.  Critics have swerved to the appellation “Shakespearian” when describing the book, I would instead invoke a comparison with the work of García Lorca.  For like Lorca’s work, Sahlberg’s is rife with the effects of the landscape, thriving with blood feuds, ridden with characters earthy and raw.  But, where Lorca is heavy with passion and bravado, Sahlberg’s tale has something of the quiet pastoral.  Lorca’s plays take place in the insufferable Andalucían heat; Sahlberg’s epic stands therefore as their colder Scandinavian brother.

Told by six voices, in monologue, the book reads as a polyphony, a symphony of many voices, luring the reader.  These voices create a chant, mnemonic, revealing and awakening memory.  So that, while many-voices, these are also a coherent whole, each voice integral to the construction of the piece.  Like the gathering of a crowd, the voices echo, closing in on the situation, gaining compunction as the tale unfurls, clutching tight around the final climactic scenes.

The tale has the elements of tragedy, set in one day, one place, all threads lead toward the final denouement.  It is an art to construct a narrative that combines theatrical grandiloquence with quiet pastoral.  Sahlberg does this by composing a tale that is rich with the ostentatious elements of epic, but also modest, using a simple directness of language and speech

This is my fence.  It is beginning to rot, little by little.  Futile, like everything I have ever done.  If it is true that, after his death, a man is remembered by his achievements, I might as well refrain from kicking the bucket, because any memory of me will just spill out and trickle away. 

…

The Brothers by Asko Sahlberg
Translated from the Finnish by Emily Jeremiah and Fleur Jeremiah
Published by Peirene Press
ISBN: 978-0-9562840-6-8

 

On Quince Juice at Drove Orchards

06 Tuesday Mar 2012

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FOOD REVIEW in NORTH NORFOLK LIVING

…

I came last Autumn to work at Drove Orchards, and have had the pleasure of working on one of the most splendid sites in North Norfolk.  With its back to the marshes, spread over seven hectares of the Norfolk coast, Drove is home to not only over 150 varieties of Apples, but also, Pears, Plums, Soft Fruits, a Market Garden and Quinces.  Each season holds its beauty, the bare lines of trees in snow; the spring blossom; but Autumn, perhaps because of the utter fruiting abundance, it quite the best season to experience the orchards.  Boughs hang heavy to the ground as one after another, the apple varieties blush red and sweeten.

At Drove Orchards we make up to twenty different juices, combining the very best apple varieties to create myriad concoctions.  Our Tasting Notes are lengthy as a Wine List, for much like wine, Apple Juice brims with flavours.  One of our most exceptional juices, the Quince Juice, a stunning, floral blend of pure Quince and Apple Juices, was recognised earlier this year in the Great Taste Awards.  Awarded a two-star Gold, we were delighted to see the awards concurring with our own opinion that the juice is “exquisite”.  Amongst a pile of acclaim, the Guild of Fine Food described the juice thus: Pleasant honey flavour; Good tartness; ‘Grown-up’ product – this would be lovely even with a mixer.

For those of you unfamiliar with the Quince, the fruit is hard and yellow.  Quite unbecoming, it has the most beautiful scent, so much so that it is often sat on kitchen tables, that the smell might pervade the room.  Otherwise, it tends to be cooked up with sugar, as in Quince Jelly, or Membrillo, a Spanish Quince Paste that is eaten with cheese.  Rare however to enjoy the fruit raw, and this is surely where the art of Drove Orchards’ Quince Juice lies, in the capturing of the raw fruit, with no additional sugar, in a bottle – the very essence of Quince.

There is a Farm Shop on site and you are welcome to come and Pick Your Own fruit throughout the season, discover the many varieties of local and heritage apples, and taste the pure pressed fruit juices.  Look out for this year’s freshly pressed Quince Juice, available from November.

…

Drove Orchards, Thornham, Norfolk, PE36 6LS – 01485 525652

www.droveorchards.com – droveorchards.blogspot.com – @droveorchards

 …

Olivia Heal no longer works for Drove Orchards.  She continues to live in Norfolk and writes a food blog: labonnebouffonnerie.blogspot.com

…

This article was published in North Norfolk Living Magazine, Winter 2011.

 

The Man Who Rained by Ali Shaw (TLS)

06 Tuesday Mar 2012

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BOOK REVIEW in TLS

…

Ali Shaw’s debut, The Girl with Glass Feet, a novel-cum-fairytale published to acclaim in 2009, was shortlisted for the Costa First Novel Award and went on to win the Desmond Elliott Prize.

The Man Who Rained is of the same ilk. Billed as a “modern-day fable about the elements of love”, it entwines contemporary concerns into the fantastical. When her father, a storm-chaser, dies in a tornado and her boyfriend proposes, Elsa’s New York life falls apart.  Only a vision of Thunderstown, the lights seen from an aeroplane, as  “a network of interlocked spirals glimmering through the dark” holds any hope.  Elsa flees New York on a quest to find out who she really is.

Untouched by modernity, rife with folklore and superstition, roamed by fairytale characters and loping dogs whose eyes reflect the sky, Thunderstown is an  otherworldly place subject to the whims of the weather.  It is surrounded by four mountains, four storms “weary from whipping and raging through the air”, which are inhabited by a series of fabular creatures. These include a man that dissolves into a cloud, who becomes the subject of Elsa’s love: Finn Munro, born of a thundercloud, cumulonimbus, who lives exiled from the town.

Ali Shaw charms with his depictions of this magical and moody world.  His pen a paintbrush, he conjures a land that is bold and bright, effusive with primary colour.  Indeed, his art is his imagination. The creatures that populate the tale are part weather:  canaries are cadmium bursts, born of sunbeams; raindrops metamorphose into insects, their bodies “like murky water”; and when killed, the skin of the ‘brook horse’ is not full of flesh and bone but “dirty flood water, seeping outwards from a shrivelled coat.”  However, The Man who Rained fast falls short of its own pretensions as a modern-day fable.

The power of the fable lies in the moral lesson it gives, the allure of the fairytale is in the sinister.  The Man Who Rained fails on both these accounts: it lacks the substance and menace necessary to give it gravitas or appeal.  The magical and the modern are irreconciled.  The concerns of the latter, which could be construed as archetypal struggles with death, love and self-knowledge, appear instead as frothy anachronism.  The tale does not succeed in reaching beyond the fantastical world it concocts.  It reads as a love story, flimsy, predictable at best, dressed-up in the garb of fable.

…

The Man Who Rained by Ali Shaw

Published by Atlantic Books

978 0 85789 032 0

…

This review was published in the TLS, 24th February 2012.

Sheepskin

16 Thursday Feb 2012

Posted by the scrivener in Writing

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This piece of fiction appeared in The White Review, November 2011

…

 

The first I noticed was your thumbnails, large, round and flat, like two plates. They were marked with yellowed ridges and covered in grime where they met the cracked tips of your thumbs. I couldn’t help looking. Perhaps I had sensed it already, in a mere handshake that morning. Perhaps that handshake had convinced me to stay and watch you skin the sheep that afternoon?

Not the stench of the two-day-dead ewe, the scuds of wool fallen to the air like a dandelion clock, nor the skin slow peeling back, revealing, not blood-lust…

I was so taken by your grimy thumbnails. And, I was crouching so close in that lost field one afternoon. We had hauled the ewe out of a pit. Found dead the previous dawn, her eyes gone, pecked out by the crows. The ewe, one of three Frieslandto start up a dairy herd, had been brought on to the island a week before; no one could get near her, not time enough even to give her a name. Some thought: she may have starved herself or she sure perished of thirst, seemingly terrified since her arrival, shuddering at the hill edge against a stone wall. The farmers think otherwise: redwater, blackleg they mumble like proverbs or curses.

She was already well swollen, her legs shooting out like on plastic models of farm animals. Rigor mortis sets in almost immediately. We had hauled her out of a pit with a blue rope around her shockstuck legs. A newly-dug pit crammed with bits to bury: a pram frame, rusted so. (And, we had always planned to repair it.) Oil barrels: two; rusty too. I forget what else. I remember that the pit was not as deep as I had expected.

Nor had I expected you to reach for some latex gloves, to stretch the opaque white rubber over your hands, your grimy nails, to then pass me a pair. And a knife.

Dead two days! a neighbouring farmer had laughed. The sheep were only there a week, and on the third day he had come round, bringing his ram to cover them: a lame, runt-of-the-litter sort of ram, with a snub bulldog nose and tail and a sloping backside. Not much go on him, one bad leg, but still a hold on his manhood. He’ll cover them yet, reliable I call him. Not like some of those other fellows on this island. Nor some of the fillies for that matter… A lame ram, and a mouthful of filth to go with.

She’s been dead two days. If she was still warm I’d have it done in five minutes. You take it across the chest, sharp through the udder, and you thump your fist right through. It’d slip out like out a woolly jumper. He was laughing. They are often laughing. Sure, you won’t get a fleece out of that one, the wool starts to fall as soon as they’re cold, what are you wanting it for?

I was merely there to watch your thumbnails, but you handed me a knife, and had me hacking across the belly like I would a fish. (Remembering how I did a fish. A trout, and not having noticed, her eggs lay still in her gross belly, red swollen lengths of trout roe under my knife.) The knife was blunt. The skin wouldn’t fall. I pierced the flesh in places, feared the great swelling would pop, pour all over, near gave up. You kept on.

A grey day. So calm that the stench of the sheep swarmed in foul clouds around us, our knives tearing gashes in the close air.

Not a limp calm, on which one leans collapsing through the air so flimsy it is hard to stay upright. No. A thick calm. A thick, slow calm in which a cloud sat above the Big Hill at dawn will descend so slowly that only as night falls will it begin to shroud the hill. Still, so dense that walking one has to physically push through it. Speaking, the voice ricochets over the air, like a stone skittering across a still sea. But we are not speaking.

We are in the grass crouching, kneeling, crawling with our knives over this ungiving sheep. And the kids run up and gape or try pulling one another away and cry a bit: It stinks I’ve had enough Let’s go Look Wait a second. They are silently challenging one another to surrender. One boy, pale, his tee shirt pulled up over his mouth and nose, shrinking behind another’s shoulder, his eyes caught in the slow manoeuvres of the operation, and his body turned away, home. And a horse being lunged nearby starts at the stink, shying, and the two more ewes and the lame ram still atop the hill, and probably still shuddering back against the stone wall at the hill edge.

There is a membrane, white, cobwebbing between the skin and the flesh. A sort of caul. I was cutting the underside, you up the chest to the neck and around the knees, but it was not loosening. We hauled her onto her other side so you could continue around her neck, continue the strange collar you were picking. I continued along the belly, my blunt slice from the chest towards the udder. The udder was stinking, sour, a lilac-stained blue. A flaccid piece of flesh flopping to the floor. Lilac-stained blue, with a curded yellowing milkmass on her teats. Eventually my latex fingers felt a loosening pushing through the membrane, in around the deep belly the skin had started to go, and it was somehow easier on her right side. For an instant that stretch of membrane had held the mystery. It was the secretive plane where the sheep was no longer dead ewe, not yet mutton. Beneath the skin, sheepform shrinks to meatform. And the membrane, that silken slip of soul, had dissolved in our touch.

You have joined me on the belly, your knife is sharper and you are ahead, at the udder. I see, suddenly your knife carving through the udder, flapping it open to form a butterfly.

…

The day of the sheep market at Maam Cross, a ram had been on the boat coming in. The head tossing, it dragged its puffed-up new owner on a long rope around its horns. Its wool was clumped, yellow, with grease at the roots. Two hundred quid from Maam Cross. Most of the men go off the island for the market. Often they won’t come back in for days, sometimes weeks, particularly in winter their absence drags on long. Blaming a bad swell, they remain in their boots and jackets sat on that long bench, hunched, as if waiting, their glasses lining up along the lean breakfast table at Molloy’s. Weatherbound and waiting for nothing. Gnarling words between their teeth they are hammering out a scornful commentary that can only be spoken away from the island’s limits. Leaning their backs against the wall. Blaming the weather. In Molloy’s or one of the other reputed houses that seem to stand for this purpose only. Better under drink ashore than at sea.

There was another younger fellow on the boat eager to handle the ram. Pulling the jaw apart, peering in. What age’d you give him? Then, with his thumbs along the back, feeling the flesh lain under the wool. Tha’s a big fella for two hundred, like, you hope he’ll do the job, got a bit of go on him. But I’m now thinking they’re better calm. Across the rump a handgrip testing, squeezing. He’ll certain do the job, but you hope he’s not too skitty, a great hind, but not worth two hundred for the eating. Nor for much else, mind. Ay, but he’ll do the job. A thick hand measuring over the backside. A firm, testing, teasing grip. A grope. Rubbing up the thighs as if to warm me up. Working up between the legs. Gentler fellow, a bit gentler. I watched him, handling the ram like he once had me.

…

It is autumn, and although the seasons here slip unnoticed one to the next, a burnishing has happened. Where this field used to stare out west over a green wave-shaped hillock marking the edge of the land, it is now an ochrous basin from which the sky looms.

The skin is coming away easier now. We have just to pull it back, the wool falling into our hands. I hold the legs out to the side to give you a better grip to pull against. At times it catches, but is loosed with a sharp nick of the knife. With one last pull at the neck it releases and we are holding the sheep’s skin between our four gloved hands, separate to the body, lain aside. The skin removed, our ewe so resembles the odd mutton carcass seen hanging in markets, or in the back of cold lorries. Lying intact, the marbled reds and purples cross-hatched with sinews, a model for anatomy class. The skin itself is lumped with meat, and with fat. You tell me that maggots will hatch and eat these remains, leaving it bare.

We dragged the carcass back to the pit – the ewe with her comic stiffjaw smile and pecked-out eyes. Only a pantomime ruff of wool remained, frilling around the head. That, a stub of tail and four white socks, one with green patches, becoming like those on a cricketer’s whites.

You dropped the weight of the skin into my hands, running off a list of instructions. Then you strode away. Reaching the far end of the field you glanced back and waved a jovial latex hand. I could just make you out removing the gloves, before leaping the gate and taking the late road southwards to the harbour.

Leaving me in this lost field one afternoon. And I had merely come to watch your thumbnails, crouching so close. I was so taken by your grimy thumbnails. On instructions, I rooted through the shed to find some two inch nails and a four by four board to stretch the skin on.

A low western sun is churning the landscape yellow, a wind picking up, and I am crouching in this field with a hammer nailing a sheepskin onto a four by four piece of ply, stretching it tight like a canvas.

Travelling Light by Tove Jansson

01 Wednesday Feb 2012

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BOOK REVIEW
…

The birds started screeching before dawn, like a thousand furies spoiling for war.  Their feet tramped over the sheet metal roof as if laying siege to the cottage.  They were everywhere.

Tove Jansson, best known for her children’s tales of the Moomins, was brought into literary consciousness through the posthumous publication of her adult writing in English translation, revealing her as a serious and very singular writer.

This latest collection, Travelling Light, gathers a handful of tales with the loosely shared theme of travel.  The theme is perhaps extraneous to the reading of the stories, for Jansson’s writing tends often towards something of travel: exiled, singular characters wander alone in vast and strange worlds, gazing upon their surroundings with the fresh, open and often surprising gaze that is that of the traveller.  Of the traveller, or equally that of the child.

One particular story from this collection, The Gulls, is not only exquisite, but also exemplary of her literary originality.  The Gulls tells of Elsa and Arne, who take a trip to one of the Scandinavian islands in a plea to cure Arne of his angst.

“Tell me again how it’s going to be.”

“You’re sitting in the bow and you’ve never been in the islands before.  With every new skerry, you think we’re there, but no, we’re going all the way out, right out to an island that’s hardly a shadow on the horizon.  And when we land, it won’t be Papa’s island any more, it’ll be ours, for weeks and weeks, and the city and everyone in it will fade away, till in the end they won’t even exist or have any hold on us at all.  Just pure peace and quiet.  And now in the spring the days and nights can be windless, soundless, somehow transparent…”

Jansson spent much of her life and based many of her tales on the Finnish Island Klovaharum.  This provides the setting for her first novel published in English The Summer Book, for many of the stories in the collection A Winter Book and two in this collection.  Is not an island, that writerly retreat, the espace exemplaire of the imagination?    The Scandinavian islands have been brought to us in the dark, poetic films of Ingmar Bergman, shot on the Swedish Island of Faro.  They again came into the public consciousness last Summer with the shooting on Norwegian Utoya. Where the latter is deeply disturbing and contemporary to our society, where Bergman is heavy in his poetry, Jansson is light, hers a feathertouch, her islands are more air and sky than land mass.  In trying to evoke the lightness I come to think that the touch of her pen recalls that of a watercolour.  This is not anodyne, for Jansson was equally an artist and illustrator, illustrating all the Moomin tales herself.

Casimir came.  The same persistent piercing cry, the same strong soft wings touching her face, the same firm grip on her hand.  She laughed out loud, let the dish fall and grabbed the gull with both hands, overcoming the powerful resistance of his wings.  It was just exactly as she had imagined it, a great silken-smooth life force caught and held in her hands.  To her astonishment, the rare furious joy of clasping the creature in her arms, suddenly went right through her and took her breath away – and at that moment the huge bird twisted out of her grasp soared out over the shore and vanished.

The particular and creative perspective that becomes apparent when reading her adult fiction explains the popularity of her children’s writing  – one understands Jansson to be writing in that boundless childworld of the imagination.   It would however be erroneous to depict her as childish, her writing as naïve or gentle.  It is in fact the unfettered gaze of the child that one recognises in her adult fiction. Far from being pretty fantasies, the worlds Jansson conjures are often sinister, full of rift, terror or anxiety.  They face unflinching into the crucial reality of life with an abrupt lucidity, but subjects are broached with the paintbrush of the imagination, creating a duality between the light and joy of the world with the dark.

A warm sunset still lingered over sky and sea.  It was dead calm and indescribably beautiful.  The large islands were soon behind them, and only very low skerries marked an invisible horizon.  Arne was sitting at the bow.  From time to time he’d turn and they’d smile at one another. […] When they arrived a screaming cloud of hundreds of seabirds rose chalk-white against the evening sky. 

The indescribable beauty of the islands, the sense of being protected from the outside world, is thus not marred by, but married to the horror induced by the whirling seabirds.  For Arne, an eider waiting for her eggs to hatch comes to represent safety and healing.

“She’s asleep,” he whispered. “When the leaves open, she’ll feel more protected.  Don’t you think?”

The chicks hatch out and Arne likewise comes out of himself.

It was unbelievable, fantastic such a remarkable thing to see […]  And at that moment came a powerful beating of wings and a great white bird dived out of the sky and seized one of the chicks.  As Arne watched in helpless horror, the eider chick disappeared down the bird’s throat bit by bit.  He screamed, rushed forward, picked up a stone and threw it.  Never before in his life had Arne thrown anything straight and true, but he did so now.  The bird fell on the granite slope, wings outspread like an open flower, whiter than mist, with the legs of the eider chick still sticking out of its mouth.

We are too often oblivious to how literary fashion dictates narrative style, to how terribly narrow the breadth of tone and voice of literature published in English is.  Only when reading something so utterly singular and unafraid as Tove Jansson’s writing, does one recall the expanses that literature can explore.  I thank Sort Of Books for having the courage and insight to bring her writing, which refuses comfort and subverts convention, to an English speaking audience.   For, reading Tove Jansson widens the literary horizon for readers and writers alike by explicitly challenging the short-sightedness of our literary tastes.

The estranged, irreconciled characters that populate Tove Jansson’s stories, the grim-but-human subjects, all are told in a voice that is expansive, breathy and yet deeply chiselled.  It is same touch that we recognise in her illustrations, colourful, bright, imaginative and yet deeply troubling.

…

Travelling Light by Tove Jansson
Published by Sort Of Books
9780954899585

This review was published in The Short Review

Next World Novella by Matthias Politycki (Peirene)

15 Sunday Jan 2012

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BOOK REVIEW

“Peirene books have become recognisable due to their quality of prose, clear as glass, succinct like poetry.  Exquisitely translated from the German by Anthea Bell, Matthias Politycki’s novella is a literary lovesong, where the boundaries between dream and reality, between this world and the next, are constantly being rewritten.”

…

If only it hadn’t been for that smell!  As if Doro had forgotten to change the water for the flowers, as if their stems had begun to rot overnight, filling the air with the sweet-sour aroma of decay.

In the first pages of this novella the reader gazes, alongside the narrator Schepp, into a room, early morning, where his wife sits leant over her desk, having apparently fallen asleep over her editing.  Schepp looks on, prolonging the moment prior to awakening her, prior to planting a kiss on her neck, prior to stealing up quietly like a man newly in love.  And the reader too remains, still, in gentle contemplation, in this gentle gaze onto the room where Doro sleeps.  This gaze has the generosity of young love, of love that has aged but remains tender as first love.

Then he bent over Doro.  Once again the smell hit him, an entirely strange smell now, a sweetish aroma mingled with the odour of sweat and urine and – he shrank back, his mouth gaping.
Gulped, gasped.

Doro has died in the night.  Her slouch having apparently fallen asleep in her chair, having forgotten to put the lid on her pen, having forgotten to change the water in the flowers, is in fact her slouch in death.  Schepp wades around her, around the room, in the first floundering moments of understanding.

At least it hadn’t been the rotting flower stems that he had smelt when he came into the room, he knew that now.

These first pages are thick with smell, with senses and sensuality.  The room, love and death are exposed not only through their contours but by the meeting of air and light, of smell and texture.  It is the stuff of dreams, the dreamstuff of awakening, the stuff too of love.  We are drawn further into this sense-rich landscape as we are drawn into the past.  Doro was a mystic/academic studying the I-Ching, and had a vision of the next world.  This she had confided in Schepp when they first met.  A dark lake, its waters motionless, in the midst of a bleak landscape.  You might try to swim across, but it is impossible.  Sooner or later you are drawn under.  This was the next world, and this death.  Doro was petrified of it, and Schepp had promised then to die first so that he might scout out the terrain for her.

I read these first pages as a lovesong.  Indeed, I was so persuaded the tale was the most poignant one of love that I read long into the book as a lovesong.  I have likewise written about it now, drawing out these pungent and painterly sceneries, glossing over detail to instead focus on the romantic touches.

My gaze myopic, for what I have failed to mention are the piles of manuscript on Doro’s desk.   These are a piece of Schepp’s earlier work scrawled over by Doro, as editor.  Doro’s scrawling reads like a dying note and is in fact a pre-meditated goodbye letter.   Schepp’s reading of this divulges a landscape terribly other to that first perceived, and sheds light on the many layers of their relationship concealed from one another.  Neither character is as they first appeared, nor is the relationship as it seemed in that first glance.  This does not shatter the love theme, but turns the tale several shades darker.   Looking on it now, it is rather a tale of secrecy, of obsession, certainly of misreading.

The novella is also a tale of the bliss of ignorance, and more so, the bliss of myopia.  The contours of dreams are thus sharper than those, blurred, when awake.  It can be read as a eulogy to myopia, to not seeing stark reality but perceiving life behind the eyelids, through the other senses.  I am reminded of an essay by Hélène Cixous: ‘Writing Blind’.  This too is a eulogy to myopia, to the moment between night and day, to the blurred contours of short sightedness.  As Schepp complains about his eye operation, which has been the cause of this grievance, so Cixous writes:

I must escape from the broad daylight which takes me by the eyes, which takes them and fills them with broad raw visions.

In the final pages of the novella, Matthias Politycki again plays with our perceptions.  Having drawn us deep into the deceitful web of this relationship, he then offers an alternative version of the tale.  The tale has been about readings, about misreadings, about writing and rewriting.  As the tale draws to a close, Politycki, in a humourous turn, or in a reassertion of that original lovesong, again rewrites it.

I need not further demonstrate the style and language of the novella, for the lines I have already quoted do this justice.  Peirene books have become recognisable due to their quality of prose, clear as glass, succinct like poetry.  Exquisitely translated from the German by Anthea Bell, Matthias Politycki’s novella is a literary lovesong, where the boundaries between dream and reality, between this world and the next, are constantly being rewritten.

From the far end of his room autumn sunlight came flooding in, bathing everything in a golden or russet glow – the chaise-longue in the corner was a patch of melting colour.  They’d have to open a window to let all that light out later.

…

Next World Novella by Matthias Politycki
Translated by Anthea Bell
Published by Peirene Press

ISBN: 978-0-9562840-3-7

…

‘Writing Blind’ from:
Stigmata by Hélène Cixous
Publ. Routledge 2005

ISBN: 0-425-34545-6

Beside The Sea – Southbank Centre – March 2012

09 Monday Jan 2012

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The sea had lost all its colour, it wasn’t blue at all, it looked like a torrent of mud. It was making a hellish noise, really angry, and the children cowered.

I am still struck by my first reading of Véronique Olmi’s Beside the Sea: a steaming Sunday afternoon in a London backyard, breath barely drawn, eyes, edged with tears, clutching to the stark narrative.  Peirene Press’ adage is somewhat thus: “Two-hour books to be devoured in a single-sitting: Literary cinema for those fatigued by film.” (TLS) and Beside the Sea is exemplary.  One reads it in one breath, unwavering.  It is a tragedy.  Indeed it near’ obeys the three unities of Greek tragedy: time, place and plot. It is grim and yet so terribly beautiful that it stands also as a flawless work of art.

…

Beside The Sea will be performed by Lisa Dwan in the Southbank Centre in March 2012.  I had the opportunity to see her dramatic reading of the monologue last July at Shorelines, Literature Festival of the Sea.  Her rendition of the novella was so apt, so terrible, as the French might put it, to mean both terrible and beautiful, that I am delighted to see it will be performed again.

Below: An abbreviated version of my original response.

…

Petite, elfin, with a beautiful mouth stretching to smile on meeting, Lisa Dwan comes from county Athlone in the depths of Ireland.  The mouth is not immaterial, nor is her background:  Lisa is best known in the UK for her role in Samuel Beckett’s monologue, Not I, in which a disembodied Mouth, lit-up eight-foot above stage-level, performs an angst ridden monologue, a logorrhoea, an internal scream.

Although Bord de Mer was written and published as a novella, Olmi, dramatist and actress, has apparently also construed it as a dramatic monologue.  Written in the first person, present-tense the text gives itself fluently to theatre.  Lisa first performed Olmi/Hunter’s text, an abridged version of the novella, at the English launch of Beside the Sea, at the French Institute in 2010.  Tonight, sat on a chair beneath a spotlight, barely glancing at the sheets of paper in her hands, Lisa’s voice embodies this harrowing female character for a second time.

One cannot overestimate the heartstopping prowess of Lisa’a handling of the monologue, which commences with the mother’s words: We took the bus, the last bus of the evening, so no one would see us.   Directly launching the spectator into the intimate directness of one woman’s terror before the world and before the responsibility that comes with motherhood.  As Lisa performs, the parallel with Not I becomes evident – When they were both asleep it was hard for me.  The talking started all of its own in my head, I hate that, thinking is a nasty piece of work.  Recalling the buzzing suffered by Mouth:  …yes…all the time the buzzing…so called…in the ears… though actually not in the ears at all…in the skull… dull roar in the skull…  Lisa wowed for her performance of Not I in under ten minutes at the Southbank centre, and yet it is not so much the speed that wows but the capturing of an expression, of a consciousness, in the mere mumblings of a mouth.  Likewise tonight Lisa stuns.  Sat on a chair she becomes, through her reading alone – such is the art of theatre – that mother, those two boys, in that brown hotel room.  Beckett is cited as saying of Mouth: I knew that woman in Ireland.  I knew who she was – not ‘she’ specifically, one single woman, but there were so many of those old crones, stumbling down the lanes, in the ditches, besides the hedgerows.  So, we recognise the figure on stage, as much in peripheral figures of society as in our own core.

A brief pause, before the reading flits to the final passages:

I decided to start with the the little’un first.

The mother smothers her two boys with the hotel pillows. Despite the dramatic intensity, heightened by Lisa’s rendition, the narrative is so tight, so engaged with the mother’s seeming detachment during the infanticide, that only with the poignant final paragraph does the act hit home:

I had two dead children. And them?  What did they have? 

I looked at them and I saw.  I saw something I’d never thought of, something I’d never imagined ever: Kevin’s face was turned towards the wall, and Stan’s towards the window.  They had their backs to each other.  They weren’t together, no, each had gone his separate way.  They weren’t joined together in death, they’d lost each other there.

And I screamed.

…

Read my full response to Beside The Sea: Salon and Dramatic Reading here.

Read what The Guardian wrote about it here.

…

Beside The Sea – Southbank Centre -7th-8th March 2012.

…

Beside the Sea, Veronique Olmi
Translated by Adriana Hunter
Published by Peirene Press, London 2010.
ISBN: 978-0-9562840-2-0

Returning to Paris – Remembering George Whitman

06 Friday Jan 2012

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Places are built of the stones that structure them, of the people that populate them.  Of the latter, there are some whose presence is so integral that they render the whole coherent. On visiting old haunts it reassures us and revivifies place to come across these figures: they are a testimony at once to time passing and to the continuity of place. George Whitman was one of these. He stood as one of the stones of Shakespeare And Company Bookshop

I first met him eight years ago. I was, I remember, daunted, petitioning somewhere-to-sleep on the back of a rumour; naïve, dreadlocked, likely barefooted… Then, a later occasion, another memory: George careering down the stairs, hammer in the hand, as I again begged a pillow to rest my head, a shout: “Are you published?!” Pasted on the bookshop walls a sign reads: Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be angels in disguise. And so, on these and many, many other occasions I was given a home. I remember too: during a particularly highbrow Shakespeare & Company Literary Festival, George sat with Lawrence Ferlinghetti, poet, bookseller, publisher, of City Lights Books, on the bench outside Shakespeares sharing a bottle of wine. Humble then, who would have known, amidst the glamour of contemporary literati, that these were the real stars, the real literary figures, the visionaries.

One comes fast to understand that one’s individual relationship to person or place inscribes itself in that of a wider history, in a collective memory. George Whitman ran Shakespeare & Co. for 61 years. The scope of his presence is wide as the length of those years. So, pilgrims have marched from all over to visit the famed bookshop, to stay even, or work there. Where Shakespeare & Co. is the inn, George Whitman was the innkeeper. The bookshop: humble as an inn, dusty too and unchanged. An inn, but also a shrine. A structure standing in memoriam. To Shakespeare? Perhaps to Shakespeare, father of literature; or to the original Shakespeare & Co. Bookshop set up in the VIème by Sylvia Beach, where Ulysses was first published. Perhaps then in memorial to Shakespeare, to Sylvia Beach, to Ulysses, or to all the authors housed in the shelves of the bookshop, to the Beat Generation behind glass, or the Lost Generation with their own section. Perhaps too, to all the wanderers, writers and dreamers that have slept between those books, the tumbleweeds, as those that stay are known, blown in from the world over; or to those angels in disguise, the pilgrims that have walked through the doors.

So it was we took the aged red Peugeot 106 on surely its first overseas voyage to Paris Vème, and to Shakespeare & Co. And the trip, overnight from Norfolk, had all the traits of a pilgrimage. The modern pilgrimage, of course, occurs in petroleum-fuelled transport, depends on the whims of P&O ferries, and, minus staff and sandals, has to cope with bad traffic on the Périphérique. We were guided then, overcity and underground, by angels? to the Cimetière du Père Lachaise.

In the city of Paris, a great space has been carved to house the dead. With its own streets, tree-lined avenues and stumbling alleyways; with structures strutting high and low, some tended, others dilapidated; with its views over and above the city to the North; and where, to the South it sinks below the city’s heights to look out on shopfronts, traffic lights and pedestrian crossings, Père Lachaise is worthy of the term city. City, or citadel, walled shadow city within the city. A city in negative. So, after the service held in La Coupole, we walked, thronged behind the coffin through those shadowstreets.

The service was beautiful, quiet, original. The French drone of the Maître de Cérémonie lifted by readings and testimonies in English. Perhaps most harrowing of all was the joyful singing of You Are My Sunshine to end the ceremony. Prior to the inhumation – and, isn’t the French word, now quixotic, wonderful – a reading of Yeats’ poem: Sailing to Byzantium. Beneath winter-grey Paris skies, amidst grey tombs, on grey cobbles, a girl with red hair read:

…
An aged man is but a paltry thing,
A tattered coat upon a stick, unless
Soul clap its hands and sing, and louder sing
…

The cemetery, the tomb, stands as a memorial in it simplest form, and Père Lachaise is already a heaving centre of pilgrimage. It is home to hefty literary types: Proust, Perec, Molière, and Paul Éluard, Gertrude Stein and Oscar Wilde. Pilgrimage is the act of inscribing oneself in archetype and ritual by re-enacting motions enacted over years. Walking a way others have walked, one is treading a path other soles trod, a road moulded by other feet, other dreams. The path becomes the measure, the sculpture, the shape in relief form of the pilgrimage. Self dissolves, singularity melds with unity.

George responded to his daughter Sylvia’s complaint, young, of being an only child – but, you have brothers and sisters all over the world. So she does. Those at the funeral were from many countries and spoke as many languages. Was it Georges Bataille who came up with the notion of une communauté de ceux qui n’ont pas de Communauté? So, George Whitman set up a place for this community-of-those-without-community, a home for exiles, wanderers, for dreamers, writers and existential orphans. Where better to do so, than in a bookstore in Paris? For, is not Paris the city of exiles? Is not literature the territory par excellence of exile? So, George, Don Quixote of the Latin Quarter, knew well.

George Whitman is remembered as a maverick, a bohemian, an eccentric. As the soul of independent bookshops. As a visionary. But, most of all, as father, friend and host. His hospitality shaped the inimitable quality of Shakespeare And Company.

Same immense, and unconditional, hospitality was showed to us by all at Shakespeare & Co. on our trip prior to Christmas to mourn, remember and celebrate George Whitman. This welcome read as a prayer: that in a world where the maverick, the bohemian, the eccentric feels ever threatened by extinction, George Whitman’s extraordinary and enlightened vision forge onward, shouldered by his daughter Sylvia and the other angels guided to those doors.

In Memoriam George Whitman – 12 december 1913-14 December 2011

…

Thank you to all at Shakespeare And Company.

…

Badaude has done a lovely illustration in memory of George Whitman, which can be found here.

La Bonne Bouffe…

07 Wednesday Dec 2011

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ALTHOUGH SOME OF OLIVIA HEAL’S FOOD WRITING CAN BE FOUND on this site, for the sum of her food writing PLEASE REFER TO HER FOOD BLOG LA BONNE BOUFFE…

Walk The Blue Fields by Claire Keegan

06 Sunday Nov 2011

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BOOK REVIEW

“Not a hate about it. The land’ll be here long after we’re dead and gone.  Haven’t we only the lend of it?”

…

Martha told stories.  In fact, she was at her best with stories.  On those rare nights they saw her pluck things out of the air and break them open before their eyes.  […] her pale hands plucking unlikely stories like green plums that ripened with the telling at her hearth.

As Martha tells stories, so does Claire Keegan.  Each offering to the reader tales that appear simple, but reveal their complex core through the telling.  Her characters, while rich with earthiness, with belonging, are thick with longing for something else.

The Parting Gift is exemplary of this.  A beautiful, understated and perfectly formed tale of a girl leaving home to go to America.  The not uncommon difficulties surrounding going away are slowly revealed to have more pertinence, as home-life is revealed:

…And then that stopped and you were sent instead, to sleep with your father. […]  Then the terrible hand reaching down under the clothes to pull up the nightdress, the fingers strong from milking, finding you.

Terrible is the strongest word used.  The tale does not judge or criticise; it does not overdramatize.  As with all her stories, Keegan simply pens a picture, which as one gazes upon it, as one might a painting, reveals its details, eventually presenting a scenario of much deeper complexity than the original glimpse contained.  Written in the present tense and the second person singular you form, the story is unsettlingly close.   But at the same time, the protagonist is distantiated from the reader: a “you”, she is other, elsewhere, as she will soon be, arriving in Kennedy Airport at 12:25.  Although unspoken, knowledge of the father’s abuse is hinted at as her brother says he stayed at home to look after her.

I did, but I wasn’t much use was I, Sis?

His sister departing, he too glimpses the possibility: I’m giving up the land.  They can keep it.  The role of the land, so present in the Irish psyche, representing livelihood, duty and pride, is also a set of inescapable shackles, binding people to their paths forever writ.  Thus, Keegan writes off the possibility of change, the embrace between brother and sister at the airport, When his stubble grazes your face recalls the father’s embrace: the mandatory kiss at the end, stubble, and cigarettes on the breath. And so her brother will not leave, he will do as expected and son will become father.

You do not have to deliver the message.  You know he will put his boot down, be home before noon, have the meadows knocked long before dark.  After that there will be corn to cut.   Already the Winter Barley’s turning.  September will bring more work, old duties to the land.  Sheds to clean out.  Cattle to test, lime to spread, dung.  You know he will never leave the fields.

Again and again characters are bowed under by their duties to the land or community, to the power of a neighbour’s opinion.  And yet, each is also edged with a flicker of yearning, so that they enact their liberty in small unspoken ways.  In Walk the Blue Fields, the title story, the wedding the Priest is attending is in fact that of his former secret love, for: If he could not leave the priesthood, she would not see him this way again. Likewise one of Martha’s children was not conceived as assumed by her husband, but by a man who came to the door to sell her roses.  How strange and soft the salesman’s hands felt compared to Deegan’s.  One of the profoundest expressions of this is in that of a Grandmother, Marcie who is taken to the ocean by her husband for one hour.

Just as he was taking off, she jumped into the road and stopped the car.  Then she climbed in and spent the rest of her life with a man who would have gone home without her.

Keegan’s voice is singular.  She is often compared to John McGahern, indeed, one of the stories in this collection, Surrender, is after McGahern. There are obvious parallels to be found in two Irish writers who tell of Irish life, but where exactly they lie beyond the setting of rural Ireland is harder to explain.  Both writers capture with perceptive insight the workings, the thinking, the dreams and thoughts of Irish communities, but what perhaps relates them more is a mood; a subtle air that tinges the writing, like the angle of a breeze, the tint of the sky.  Something I have always admired in McGahern, the echo of which I find in Claire Keegan’s writing, is the capacity for still in a story, for instants of calm; often the gaze is drawn back from the specificity of a situation to look upon the sky, to gaze across a field.  Like a breath being drawn: simple, clear.

There is surely something in the Irish voice that is different.  The sense of belonging is coupled with one of exile.  So, I believe, is the voice.  There is a language so deep and undisturbed, an oral tradition almost integral to the people, that it seems to gurgle from the throat much as it might from the land itself.  And, there is something else, something that finds its most urgent expression in the writing of Beckett and Joyce, it is a difficulty in sitting comfortably in a language, a refusal of complacency.  Perhaps it seems nostalgic to see it thus, but there is something in the attribution of this sensitivity to the fact that the predominant written and spoken language in contemporary Ireland is English, the language of the colonisers.

Thus Claire Keegan writes, in a hefty literary and linguistic tradition, but stark, and sharp, striking out sentences like chords unveiling the both harrowing and life-affirming depths of her characters’ lives.

…

This review was published in The Short Review.

…

Walk the Blue Fields by Claire Keegan
Published by Faber 2007.
ISBN: 9780571233076

Cider Pressing in Suffolk

03 Monday Oct 2011

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Please refer to La Bonne Bouffe for Olivia Heal’s Food Blog

 

Charmed as one might be to receive a jovial invitation to a Cider-Making Weekend, a glance between the lines and we’ll find the invite actually reads: come slog away at the squeezing of m’ apples that I might stock up the cellar.  But, the fellow an artiste of the home-made brew, the place a haven, the weather bursting with sunshine… I trundled to the depths of Suffolk county for a weekend spent mastering the art of Wild Cider Making.
Wild Cider is the traditional brew, which harnesses the natural yeasts from the air and the fruit and thus ferments.  We were fortunate to be in the hands of a man whose system is quite perfected… the method being as follows:
The Apples, a muddle of sweet eaters, washed with a jet wash are then bashed, sliced using spades to facilitate the next steps.
These are thrown into a Mill, which further pulps the apples.

A traditional pressing method squeezes the juice from the Apples.

The juice is collected in a bucket.
…
A Second Pressing was attempted, packing the pulp from the first into this most beautiful of presses, gleaned from Italy.  One would imagine this second pressing, much like that of Olives produces the more refined juice?  There was some debate however about the reaction between the apples and the steel, our host wary of the contraption, whether indeed this will produce a pleasant drink remains to be told…
’tis a gentleman’s sport this, requiring the mere squeezing of a lever…
…the juice flows

…

The Juice is filtered, then left to ferment in Airlocked Fermenting Bottles until the blossom is again on the apple trees.  All being well the wild yeasts will ferment the natural sugars producing Cider. This will then be racked off into bottles and provide Cider-enough to keep mine host and friends in liquor until the following year’s batch is brewed…

…
While I’m on the subject, tomorrow I shall tell of the distilling of Cider to make a Calvados worthy of late nights and sweet dreams…

Mussels, in Chickpea-Chorizo Stew, Bloody Mary and Moules Marinieres

29 Thursday Sep 2011

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PLEASE REFER TO LA BONNE BOUFFE FOR OLIVIA HEAL’S FOOD BLOG
As the weather simply fails to concede this year to any less-than-extraordinary predictions, in the midst of Autumn we find ourselves sweltering in a heat worthy of the Mediterranean.  A joy to be obliged to laze in the garden in a mere wisp of clothing with an Hispanic it’s too hot to do anything but… attitude.  An appropriately lengthy and late lunch was necessitated, and as, in late September we are in the first throes of the new Mussel season, a bowl of Mussels was timely.
A brief step to the coast, thronged with sheds-cum-fishmongers baring their latest wares.  Mussels splitting plastic bags for a couple of pounds per kilo of the freshest… indeed these are such common fodder they are to be found stacked on tables beside an honesty box.
And to have with?  Some chick-peas cooked that morning with Hummus pretensions, a wealth of bursting ripe tomatoes awaiting picking, onions just plaited, Chorizo lazing in the fruitbowl – a stew… and of that sourdough I’ll back something lighter and whiter than the usual fare….
Tomato, Chorizo and Chick-Pea Mussel Stew with an almost-white Sourdough
Mussels 1kg; 1 large Onion or several Shallots roughly chopped; 3 cloves Garlic, crushed; chunk of Marrow, peeled and cut small; 5 Tomatoes, peeled using hot water, then chopped; 1tsp Paprika; Chilli, chopped; handful of pre-cooked (or tin) Chick Peas; Olives; Capers; Bay Leaf;  White Wine; Celery/Celeriac tops; Parsley.
Heat Olive Oil in pan.  Add Onion, Garlic, Chorizo, Marrow.  After a few minutes add Tomatoes, Paprika, Chilli.  Then add Chick Peas, Capers (or Nasturtium Capers); a few Olives; a dash of Water or Tomato Juice.  Cook gently for half an hour, adding liquid if necessary. Meanwhile, wash, scrub, beard the Mussels.  Just before eating heat a large pan with ½ inch of White wine, another Onion, Celery and Parsley.  When hot add Mussels, stirring or lidding and shaking.  When opened toss Mussels and a bit of their juice into the tomato stew.  Sharpen with a squeeze of Lemon.  Serve steaming hot with bread, under the shade of an Autumnal tree…

For the bread, I took a Wheat and Rye Sourdough, just risen and ready-to-bake, instead kneaded it up with the same again of Strong White Flour, a tiny sprinkle of dried Yeast.  Rose it in a warm place for a couple of hours, baked hot, ate warm.

Moules Marinières

Fresh Mussels are simply delicious, and don’t really necessitate anything fancy.  The method I used to cook the Mussels themselves, above, is that of a simple, and sensational, Moules Marinieres.  Add a slurp of cream on serving hot.
Bloody Mary Mussels à la Jamie Oliver
I am barely acquainted with Jamie Oliver’s recipes, but when I came across his Bloody Mary Mussels in a magazine last year, was sorely tempted.  They were a cinch and a success.  While I’m on Mussels, I’ll share that recipe too:
Ingredients: 300ml Passata; 1 tbsp Worcestchire sauce; 3 heaped tsp grated Horseradish; 1 Chilli, sliced ; ½ head of Celery; 4 cloves of Garlic; splash of Port; good splash of Vodka; 1 Lemon; 2 kg cleaned Mussles; Parsley.
Pour Passata into a jug with Worcestershire Sauce;  Horseradish;  Chilli; 2 or 3 Celery stalks, sliced; crushed Garlic; Port and Vodka.  Stir well.  Squeeze in juice of Lemon and season.
Tip Mussels into hot pan, pour in Bloody Mary mixture.  Put lid on, shake pan and leave Mussels to steam open.  Turn heat up high.  Shake again.  Once all open, remove with slotted spoon.  Reduce and thicken sauce.  Pour over Mussels, drizzle with Olive Oil and scatter with chopped Parsley.

Notes: On Forage, Mushrooms and the Noma Cookbook

21 Wednesday Sep 2011

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PLEASE REFER TO LA BONNE BOUFFE FOR OLIVIA HEAL’S FOOD BLOG
We do not stop the world when we eat; 
we go into it a little more deeply.
Olafur Eliasson (Noma)


Cep
…
Allow me a paintbrush, a palette…a pile of artistic licence to tell of some friends of mine and their wild ways.  Boys they are, a huddle of them, bare’ approachable and and not easy to handle.  They can’t be tethered down and one won’t find them for looking.   But, one might come across them…
On the foreshore by night fighting the tide for a last Sea-bass; atop a tree, gathering Plums to pot a Pigeon in; plucking a Greylag large to feed a crowd.  Adventurous with tastes, unperturbed by roadkill, they’ll be smoking Mackerel in a filing-cabinet-cum-smoker; cooking Mullet in milk for fishcakes; stewing Cockles in a split can of cider on an open fire; barbecuing Samphire.  How very nineteenth century lyrical said a friend as I rhapsodised about baskets of Ceps, and indeed, these are the Huck Finn’s of today, the unassuming artistes of forage.
Dried Chanterelles
Last I called by, Muntjac was roasting in the oven, surfaces brimming with mushrooms gathered, some dried, a hoard: Shaggy Parasols; Chanterelles, orange and sweet-apricot-scented; something blue.  Another fellow appeared a basket in his hand large to gather wood, in it full – Penny-Buns, Ceps, plentiful as a baker’s.
We ate then Parasol:
The cap cut into long, thick strips, doused long in egg and salt and pepper breadcrumbs, fried quick and served slathered unashamedly in mayonnaise.  A dream.
Parasol Mushrooms in Bowl of Apples

The Ceps so plentiful I took some home.
…
This weekend, another scene: ‘midst fashionistas, florists and folklorists, stepping the streets of London town…  On gathering my basket and boots to return home, risen at dawn to the cockney cries of Columbia Road Flower Market, pressed into my hands was a copy of Noma, Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine by René Redzepi.  I have long hankered after this book and was delighted to be given it.  (Thanks Laur!) It is indeed an extraordinary book, but with over half of the pages covered in photos worthy of the wall, it is not a manual.  The recipes themselves, so daunting that I’m glad I didn’t turn to it to cook my Ceps, relying instead on friendly advice and Elizabeth David (see below).
Indeed, I now understand that the book is less a cookbook and more a book to wander through, wonder at, that tells of the story behind the Michelin starred Copenhagen restaurant Noma.  No longer silent, secret, unassuming; at Noma forage is ostentatious, it’s an artform plucked or peacocking, it is the very edgiest of foodthinking, where food overlaps with artthought and critical theory.  But on closer inspection, I am also ready to bow to this.  Of René’s moment of illumination, he writes:
I realized that we had to exploit the seasons in a better way, so that you could only get a particular dish here and now.  We should explore the extremes of nature, seek out the thousand or more species of edible fungi, the many wild plants, roots and seashore plants. […] The guests dining at Noma should feel a sensation of time and place in their very bones.
Ingredients were thus combined not only with those of same season, but those of their natural habitat.  If venison was on the menu, the meat should be served with snails, pine shoots and mushrooms.  Thus recipes such as: Bouillon of Steamed Birchwood, Chanterelles and Fresh  Hazelnut; Stone Crab and Beach Mustard, Cockle Gel or simply Snails and Moss.  And abruptly, the nineteenth century lyricists and the uber modern restaurant look no longer askance upon one another, artistes the both.
…
Ceps
Not Ceps and Poached Truffle Meringue (à la Noma) but Cèpes à la Bordelaise (Elizabeth David) with Brown Rice Risotto.
In her French Provincial Cooking, Elizabeth David quotes the recipe of Alcide Bontou (refer to the book to read more).  I shall do likewise:
“Choose 12 firm cèpes, small rather than large, and with dark heads; remove the stalks and peel them, but only wipe the heads; make incisions on the underside of the heads with the point of a knife.  Put a glass of olive oil in a frying-pan; when it is hot, put in the heads of the cèpes; turn them over when they have browned on one side.  Season with salt and pepper.
Chop the stalks with four cloves of garlic and some parsley.  Throw this mixture over the cèpes.  Let them all sauter in the pan for 3 or 4 minutes.
You may add a tablespoon of soft white breadcrumbs.  Serve.”
I made a pseudo-risotto with Short Grain Brown Rice, butter, Shallots, Bay-Leaves, White Wine and Wighton, a local creamy but hard cheese.  And served the Ceps on top.  Divine.
…
Another great friend, longdeserving of a blog post dedicated to her green fingers, her inexhaustible creative energy and her kitchen concoctions, whose latest addition to the home is a goat in the back garden (soon I hope we’ll be on milk and cheese)… makes a Puffpall Pâté of such flavour it is also worthy of Michelin stars.
Puffball Pâté
I haven’t the exact recipe, and I rather doubt there is one.  Try:
Chop and very gently fry up Puffballs with Garlic and Cumin in Butter.  Blend the lot adding Salt and Pepper or a touch of Soy Sauce.  Spread on bread for a deeply mushroom flavour edged with garlic and cumin.  You could also try adding cream, cream-cheese.
If you do attempt this let me know!
…

Notes:
 -The Noma cookbook is indeed a gift, only on the verge of my foray into it, I hope to write more anon.
 -Writing at first light, I espy another forager: a grey squirrel feasting on the last of the overripe Bullace.

Maybe This Time by Alois Hotschnig (Peirene)

20 Tuesday Sep 2011

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BOOK REVIEW
…

Prior to the Peirene Salon, sitting a moment in a London café on a busy city street, the book between my hands, reading… drawn away from the London sunshine to other streets other times, to somewhere altogether less comfortable and more absorbing… and as the story finishes: again, a London street, but the light is somewhat different, the mood tweaked, my coffee, cold before me, untouched.


…
I couldn’t attempt to do justice in words to the oeuvre that is acclaimed Austrian writer Alois Hotschnig and his collection of stories, Maybe This Time, recently published by Peirene Press.  Hotschnig’s is a rare art in this age, his tightly structured compositions born of a hefty intellect and a thorough precision more comparable to the work of Jorge Luis Borges and Franz Kafka than contemporary writers.  And, not unlike those other greats, Hotschnig’s stories have an arresting and ludic quality that draws the reader in deep, challenging their perspective of reality and identity.  It would thus be erroneous to paint Hotschnig as an inaccessible literary creature, for much as in person he is thick with charm and humour, so his tales have a playfulness, a mischievousness and an allure that fast has the reader captivated.

Reading the stories I came across a voice so rich with echo, thick with it – a voice shudderingly familiar and shudderingly unplaceable.  I have already mentioned Borges, and Kafka, the latter to whom critics are quick to compare Hotschnig… But, this is merely anodyne, as Hotschnig says – drawing a parallel with the paintings of an artist he’d come across that afternoon at the Tate, I saw Ernst there, Manet, Picasso, Chagall too – each of us writes, and reads, with our own literary history, a literary unconsciousness.  He implies what Borges has said before:  every writer creates his own precursors.

Furthermore, a collective history, a collective memory and a collective unconsciousness become apparent, so that Hotschnig is not simply writing in the wake of literary voices, but also in the wake of Auschwitz, of Sigmund Freud, of Austrian and Catholic histories.  There is no innocence then, we are each of us speaking, reading, writing with what has gone before.

Nor could I hope to reproduce Hotschnig’s words.  At the Peirene Salon this weekend, he spoke with an extraordinary calm and keenness for precision, as to his literary intention, his motives and how he crafts his stories.  Precision, as if battling with a fear that the listener might misunderstand, misinterpret, an integral wish to be understood – oh impossible feat!  His work is suited then to a translator, the very excellent Tess Lewis, who works with same precision and thoughtfulness.  Lewis has worked in a very close relationship with Hotschnig for twenty years, as able to translate his Austrian as she was to express his thoughts.  On speaking, Hotschnig held quite the same power as narrator of his stories, absorbing, at once silencing and animating the listener.

In Maybe This Time, tales are crafted with structures redolent of the artwork of M. C. Escher, and the reader finds himself in worlds of shifting perspectives, timeless anyplaces that whilst seemingly eccentric and other, are also deeply familiar.  This is probably one of the most disturbing factors of these stories, their recognisable quality;  Hotschnig creates an atmosphere of das unheimliche, the uncanny, that which is both strange and familiar.

The woman stopped me on my way to her neighbours.  They were friends of mine who had invited me to visit.  She waved me over to the house next door to theirs.  From a distance, she had probably mistaken me for someone she knew.

The third story, Then a Door Opens and Swings Shut is most explicit of the experience of reading Alois Hotschnig.  One takes a step through a door; it swings fast shut behind us.  The sense of the inevitable is such, in this as all of the stories, that one cannot but watch as both reader and protagonist are swiftly guided from the seemingly everyday into quite another situation.

I had no idea how I would ever escape.

This is Karl, she said, and gently stroked the doll’s hair.  Without thinking, I brushed the hair off my forehead in a matching gesture.  Look at his face, she said.

The doll had my name.  And now, as the woman drew my attention to the doll’s face, I noticed how much it resembled me. 

Thus the protagonist is lured into a game of mirrors with the doll, and reader with protagonist, creating a quarrel of identification and dis-identification.  Much as Hotschnig’s protagonists learn to look on their own self, part enthralled, part repulsed, so does the reader.

I stayed away for a while, forcing myself to keep my distance, yet I longed to go there all the more.  I gave in, stopped resisting.  I pretended nothing had changed, and she pretended nothing had changed, and we sat across from each other, as we had done before.  She stroked Karl’s head and looked me in the eye and placed the child’s finger in her mouth, kissing it tenderly for a long time and sucking on it.  She slavered over the little hand, and pulled it back out of her mouth where the fingers had begun to dissolve.

A not unrealistic scenario, stopping into an old woman’s house, has brought reader and protagonist to an unexpected place, an uncomfortable, disturbing place.  In each of Hotschnig’s stories there is a change, the commonplace becomes the uncommon, the uncanny.  It is but subtle, we are lured, much like Hansel and Gretel, and then it is too late, we cannot resist.  A door has opened and swung shut.  I have to admit, having finished this story, I found it hard to reopen the book.  But like protagonist, as soon as I left her house I was drawn back there.  So, I picked up the book again.

This then is where his art lies, not in the intellectual prowess that structures the stories, for, so mathematically precise, the reader can be oblivious to this. It is instead the trancelike rhythm, the magnetism conjured by an obsessive psyche that draws the reader into same obsession.  Alois Hotschnig’s stories are not easy, nor are they so headily intellectual that reading becomes a trial.  They are stark, beautiful, certainly uncanny.  With this collection of short stories, Alois Hotschnig shows himself to be undoubtedly one of the contemporary literary greats.
…

Maybe This Time, by Alois Hotschnig.
Published by Peirene Press, London 2011.
ISBN: 978-0-9562840-5-1
…

Peirene Salon - An evening with Alois Hotschnig and Henrietta Foster

A joy to up to London and attend this Peirene Salon on Saturday eve’.  Medlied wine and food, charm and literary chat, Alois Hotschnig in conversation with BBC’s Henrietta Foster and his translator Tess Lewis.  

Read Peirene’s view on… the morning after here.

Not for their charm alone; Peirene is quite one of the most exciting publishers I know of, in a world where literary perspicacity is rare, Peirene is exemplary… I urge you to foray for yourself amongst their publications, some of which I have reviewed here.

Simple French Cooking for English Homes by Xavier Marcel Boulestin

17 Saturday Sep 2011

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PLEASE REFER TO LA BONNE BOUFFE FOR OLIVIA HEAL’S FOOD BLOG

…

BOOK REVIEW

Marcel Boulestin does not skimp on the preface, peppered with idiosyncratic literary quotations, which demonstrate his own background as a journalist and translator. He appears to believe that food should be common parlance of the cultured, not shut behind scullery doors. Indeed, the preface is followed by a collection of Remarks, one of which, endorsing food’s place in conversation, I particularly liked:

Do not be afraid to talk about food. Food which is worth eating is worth discussing. And there is the occult power of words which somehow will develop its qualities.

A brief glossary, further quotes, including brilliant Brillat-Savarin on hospitality, and then we are thrown into the recipes. It is always a pleasure to decipher the French terminology, much like one might rifle through the pages of a Menu, sat at a brasserie in France. The translations given might even serve to illuminate what that incomprehensible plat du jour indeed was! A chapter on Soups, including a Pot au Feu, is followed by one on Sauces – a favoured French skill – and then Eggs; Fish; Meat; Pastries and Sweets; and a delightful final chapter Sundries in which Marcel Boulestin amasses the remainder of what he considers vital French food: Gherkins are here placed alongside Pineapple Wine and the extraordinary, and quite delicious-sounding Crème de Camembert, in which the cheese is steeped in White wine, left over night, beat with butter, reshaped and topped with breadcrumbs.

Unlike cookbooks of today, rich with lifestyle, colloquialisms and sumptuous photography, those of yesteryear such as this Simple French Cooking…, published in 1923, were manuals in the strictest sense of the term. Marcel Boulestin does not take any knowledge, or common-sense it seems, for granted. To the point that the poached egg recipe is followed by one for Oeufs Pochés Béarnaise – Poach your eggs and put them on a stiff béarnaise sauce, for Oeufs Pochés Sauce Tomate – Poach your eggs and cover them with tomato sauce. And, indeed, for Oeufs Pochés au Maïs – Poach your eggs and put them on a dish of sweetcorn. But, perhaps this is where the charm of this cookbook lies. Rife with idiosyncratic whim, it serves also as an efficient culinary reference… particularly astute at capturing those French meals of days yonder. Although not as rich in anecdote as the books of Elizabeth David, the writing is lucid, the tone eloquent and Marcel Boulestin succinctly renders French food accessible to the English cook.

The main chapters are followed by A Week’s Menu, subtitled Showing how to use up everything. Monday, for example, demands:
Luncheon – Soft roes omelette, Grilled cutlets, French beans, Potatoes boulangère, Cheese and fruit.
Dinner – Vegetable soup; Cold roast pork périgourdine; Fried potatoes; Salad of peppers and cauliflowers; Compote of apples.

Then follows an explanation of how each meal leads to the next. I was quite drawn into the subsequent Menu for a Late Supper (After and Informal Party) in which Marcel Boulestin delights with his statement:

Nothing better, say at 3 o’clock in the morning, than a boiling hot soupe au choux and cold meat […] one of those little white or pink wines from Anjou or Touraine […] strong black coffee…
This is more suitable, though, he determines, for Chelsea than for Bayswater – unless the inhabitants of this “highly desirable district” happen to feel, for once, “delightfully bohemian”.

Nor does Marcel Boulestin fail to include a note on wine and a lengthy index. Indeed, the book seems to successfully compile the sum of French living in the English home. And, once again, Quadrille Press has rendered what was ancient novel, the quixotic quirky. The book is hardbound in yellow, with gold-edged pages, looks great on the shelf and would also be a charming gift, particularly for the Francophile cook. Whether I shall use it to refer to, I don’t know. A manual it may be, but it really wins over for its dated charm, for the nostalgia it awakens and for the echo of France it invokes.

…
Simple French Cooking for English Homes
By X. Marcel Boulestin
Introduction by Jill Norman
First Published in 1923
Published by Quadrille Publishing, Classic Voices in Food, 2011
ISBN – 978-1-84400-981-7
…
My thanks to Quadrille for the review copy of this book.

Pickled Crab Apples – a flamboyant addition to the winter table

08 Thursday Sep 2011

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Fed up of endless yearly Jelly-Making…Indeed, does it not seem a pity to see the fruits thrown, only the liquid kept, not to mention the vast amounts of sugar demanded?  I was delighted to come across a recipe for pickling Crab Apples.
The idea came from quite one of my favourite forage books: Suzanne Beedell’s Pick Cook and Brew… I picked it up second-hand on the Charing Cross Road years ago, the name alone won me over, and at the time I thought it a gift suited to my father.  It has since been relinquished, and found a home in the cottage here as if meant to be. It’s particularly appropriate, as the forager herself lived in North Norfolk – what she found in the seventies can likely still be found locally today.
So, amidst recipes and illustrations for Crab Apple Pudding, Crab Apple Wine…there I read: Crab Apple Pickle.  An incorrigible pickler, this could not fail to whet the appetite.
I altered her recipe to suit me, and pickled as follows:
Heat 750ml Cider Vinegar, 250ml Apple Juice, 600g Sugar in a pan stirring until sugar dissolves.  Add 1kg Crab Apples, washed, the blossom end removed, I chose to keep the stalks on an aesthetic whim.  The liquid should cover the Crab Apples.  Add 2in. grated Root Ginger, a few Cloves and Peppercorns, 3 All Spice, 3 Star Anise, 2 Cinnamon Sticks,1tbsp Mustard Seed, and her recipe also calls for garlic cloves wrapped in muslin, to be removed at the end.  (The terrible stench of pickled garlic made me think I would choose onions on another occasion).  Simmer until Crab Apples are tender.  Pot fruit in sterilised jars and reduce syrup if necessary.  Pour syrup over Apples, making sure they are well covered.  Seal immediately.  Leave a few months to mature before eating.
These beautiful pickled yellow fruits would look glorious adorning Beast and Fowl in winter months.  Try also on a Cheese Plate, with Pork, even Suckling Pig.  A sharp bite they make a statement both in taste and looks, cutting through fats and rich flavours… I cannot recommend enough for adding a touch of the ostentatious, the extraordinary, the medieval to a winter banquet.
For other alternate Crab Apple uses, see: Hedgerow Syrup and Carl Legge’s Blackberry Chutney.  Carl also has a recipe for DIY Cider Vinegar, hope maybe to get to that this afternoon..
…
I also pickled some beautiful tiny Epicurean Apples.  These were windfalls, and have a great flavour, but are small enough to fit whole in pots.  I used this Recipe, which I used for the Pear windfalls of last year, only replacing the distilled vinegar with White Wine Vinegar and adding some All Spice.
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Follow this link for all the Chutney and Pickle Recipes on this blog.

Potted Figs, Bullace Jam, Pumpkin Chutney…perpetual preserving

06 Tuesday Sep 2011

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Halved Figs to be macerated in Honey, Lemon and Vanilla.

The Figs have been wondrous this year, and indeed, it seems a pity to cook them at all, when, despite an impoverished summer they are sweet, soft and nearly-not-quite comparable with memories of those bursting, bulbous falling from the trees of the Andalusian countryside.  If your tree hasn’t produced same sumptuous crop, do bear in mind, as far as I understand, that Fig Trees like stress and sun.  They are often put in pots or planted in amongst builders’ rubble against a South-facing wall to encourage fruiting and ripeness.

But, we are unable to eat them all, and besides piling them into a Tagine, as I did last week, potting is an excellent way of preserving them.  That said, drying now comes to mind.  A solar-dehydrator would do the trick, as would a hot no-too-damp greenhouse, or strung up inside the car.  Whether our Figs are sweet enough to preserve successfully dried, and whether Autumnal Norfolk has enough heat, I don’t know. (Do let me know of any of your own experiements…)

Potted Figs.  I posted the recipe here when enjoying last-years potted figs, and simply mention it again as it’s the season and I’ve been taking great pleasure in doing so at the cottage.  On this occasion I replaced the Whisky with Brandy and for lack of Vanilla Pod I used good quality (Nielsen-Massey) Vanilla Extract.

As, it seems to be the season of perpetual preserving, do bear in mind that you can also pot Pears, Peaches, Apples along these lines.  In most cases I would take the precaution of pasteurising as well.  On another note, the tradition of Rumtopf offers a great way of preserving fruits for pudding.

…

Bullace, Port and Walnut Jam

This recipe was shared by Jules Jackson of De-lish (@dehyphenlish).  It’s so good that I was near’ pouring scalding hot spoonfuls of the stuff down my throat…only some last hold on reason prevented me.

Place about 2kg of stoned Bullace (Plums, Damsons etc will do equally as well) in a bowl.  Cover with Port and leave to macerate overnight.  The following day bring to the boil.  Take off the heat and add 2kg of Sugar, stirring until dissolved.  Add 400g of Walnuts, halved or quartered as desired.  I also added a good slosh of Balsamic vinegar (red-wine vinegar would do equally) to give the jam a slightly sharp edge.  Bring to heat again and simmer hard until setting-point is reached.  Pot in warmed, sterilised jars.

Despite being called a “Jam”, a touch tart, this is really more of a confiture, to be served with savouries, such as Cheeses, Pork and Game.  Mr Jackson resolutely sticks to the term “Jam” merely, I suspect, due to a certain pleasure in the mundanity of the word… Or, indeed, he simply prefers to spick with the Anglicised version. Either way, I am sure this would be quite as dreamy on toast, but, truth told, I’m not really one for spreading jam on toast, and much prefer the savoury combinations…

…

Pumpkin and Apple Chutney

Again, it seems a pity to put a Pumpkin in chutney as they store so well as they are.  This chutney was really a result of half a Pumpkin sitting around not being eaten and the eternal Apple glut.  I have quite a variety of Apple Chutney recipes up my sleeve, but this is a blend of the quirky and the traditional.

Chop 2 Onions, half a small Pumpkin (Uchiki Kuri), 8 large Apples (peeled, cored), oh, I see, a handful of green tomatoes (optional!),  1 Chilli (more or less depending on heat) into small pieces.  Grate 2 in. Root Ginger.  Put the lot in a pan with 1lt Cider vinegar.  Bring to the boil then take off heat and add 400g Demarara Sugar, 1 tbsp Corinader Seed, 1 tbsp. black Peppercorns, 1tbsp Brown Mustard Seed, a handful yellow Sultanas, a pinch of salt.  Stir and bring once again to the boil.  Simmer gently for several hours, stirring to prevent sticking.  Once the mixture is considerably reduced and of a thick, sludgy consistency which holds a wooden-spoon upright, it is ready to be potted.  Pot in warmed, sterilised jars.
Leave several months to mature before eating.

Part-Cured Pig with Greengages and Apples

28 Sunday Aug 2011

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Unfazed by a pheasant, by gizzards or liver, I have to admit to being slightly nervous about cooking cuts of meat, particularly when it comes to reared livestock: Pig, Sheep, Cow.  But De-Lish, the North-Norfolk Coast charcutier was sporting some pics of shopmade Petit Salé, and, when I saw it in life, I couldn’t resist.  I admitted my ignorance and the charcutier advised:  Wash, rinse, wash again.  Leave overnight in clean water.  Bake.  


Qu’est-ce qu’un Petit Salé?  Whence the term originates I know not, but I imagine it would be better literally translated as a little bit salted, than, as I would be tempted: small salted thing.  In English one might call it Salt Pork, or, as in a book I am currently reviewing: Simple French Cooking for English Homes (republished by Quadrille), Pickled Pork.  I quite like to think of it as Part-Cured Pig, as, I assume, were it fully cured it wouldn’t need to be cooked.
Here’s Alexandre Dumas’ recipe for Petit Salé, in one lengthy but eloquent sentence from Le grand dictionnaire de cuisine:

Pour faire le petit salé, vous coupez des poitrines de cochons en morceaux ; frottez-les de sel fin comme le lard, ajoutez-y un peu de salpêtre, arrangez-les au fur et à mesure les uns après les autres dans un pot, ayez soin de les bien fouler pour éviter qu’elle ne prennent le goût d’évent ; bouchez les vides que pourra laisser le sel, recouvrez le vas d’un linge blanc et fermez le plus hermétiquement possible et servez-vous au bout de huit ou dix jours pour mettre sur des choux ou sur ce que vous voudrez.
Otherwise, Monsieur le Charcutier suggested looking to Jane Grigson and Lindy Wildsmith for recipes.  I would imagine these are slightly more adventurous than Duras’ simplistic version above.

 Washing petit salé

So, simply:  Wash, rinse, wash. Leave overnight in clean water.  The following day however, I did get adventurous, and laid the piece of meat on a bed of Greengages and Chopped Apples, whole cloves of Garlic a knob of Butter, salt and some Red Onion before baking it at 180C for about half an hour, until cooked.  Deep pink, with a ham-like consistency, lovely and flavoured, surprisingly sweet and not too salty.  


Were I to do it again, I would sweat the onions and garlic first, and lay the Greengages etc on a bed of buttered onions.  I ate it as it was with only a spoonful of Pickled Gooseberries, to cut through any fat and aggrandize the medieval theme.
…
Next I’ll have to attempt that Petit Salé m’self…

Lamb and Fig Tagine – and Moroccan meanders

26 Friday Aug 2011

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I haven’t the camera to persuade you of the sumptuous delight that was last night’s Lamb and Fig Tagine…She writes, swallowing down the last leftovers in a bout of shovelling, smiling, chop-licking.  But picture: sweet nuggets of Lamb, slow cooked in North African spices with whole homegrown Figs, Patisson and Squash… the lot layered in a ceramic Tagine in an expression of artistic diligence and decadence…Oh, had I but the photo to share.

Instead, let me share the Recipe.

I learnt to make Tagine having found myself living in a dustblown village on the edge of the Moroccan Sahara five, perhaps more, years ago.  Tagine was a staple, a simple dish, prepared by roughly chopping a few veg, placing them in the Tagine with Water, Cumin, Paprika and Olive Oil, and then leaving sat on the stove slowly cooking.  Effortless, delicious.  On grander occasions, a chunk of meat, often Lamb or Chicken was added, some Fruits or Olives.  The lesser members attending the feast would eat the vegetables and the guest of honour, a well-married aunt perhaps, would take the meat, leaving a smidgen for the others.  We ate with our hands of one bowl.  We broke one bread.  Memories are now vague, but, as often when travelling, the food remains, the flavours, the tastes and textures, and the communal act of sharing a meal with the people of that land.  Morocco draws memoryscapes heavy with rasping sweet Mint teas; Rose and Orange scented Sweetmeats; Oases where Pomegranates grow; Dates ripe, sweet and large as your fist; Rooves lain with Apricots sundrying… Those, Polenta bread at dawn eaten dripping with Honey and steaming milky Coffee.  Or, Loubia a streetfood not unlike classy baked beans, Round baked breads dipped into endless bowls of Harira ( a lentilly/chick-pea Soup mad with beef or Lamb or… Thick and Yellow and sustaining); on the coast Sardines fresh grilled.  I have no memory of eating Couscous, nor did I ever try Bastilla (sweet Pigeon Pie) ’til quite recently in Norfolk, but, need I say, falling deeper into reveries, the Hashish sticky and black as Opium, the Opium…
Somehow I hefted a ceramic Moroccan Tagine all the way back overland to Norfolk…

So, the recipe for a basic Tagine:

Chop onions in large rings, place on base of Tagine with Olive Oil, Paprika and Whole Cumin.  Heat without the lid.  Meanwhile seal the meat.  Then layer Meat, Veg (keep large), Legumes, Fruit, Nuts, Olives, whole Cloves of Garlic, whole Chillies artistically – a sort of Food-Mandala in the dish.  Placing the veg that need more cooking lower down, those that need less higher.  Top with a few half-Lemons, more Chillies, fill to rim with water,adding salt, spices, Harissa, Chermoula, and cook lidded for an hour to an hour and a half, until meat cooked, veg tender but not fallen to pieces, juice full of flavour.  I tend to serve with Couscous or a large Flatbread (actually Nigella’s recipe from Domestic Goddess), perhaps some Yogurt and extra Harissa.

For Lamb and Fig Tagine I used: Onion, Garlic, Shallots, Florence Fennel, Pumpkin, Patisson, Courgette, Fresh Figs, Black Olives and Fresh Chillies.  Paprika, Cumin, Ground Ginger, Harissa and Ras-el-hanout.

Otherwise, root veg are great in Tagines, Cinnamon and Apricots are nice additions, as is Pheasant or Chick Peas.  Once again, when you have the basics, you can put in what you best like.

Saucy additions to  Tagines come in the form of:

Chermoula (Sauce for tipping on your Tagine and for cooking Morroccan style fishes, meats etc)
2 Cloves Garlic, Salt, Chilli Powder, ground Cumin, Pepper, Fresh Coriander and Flat Leaf Parsley, Juice of 2 Lemons, 1 tsp Vinegar, 1 Tbsp oil.  

Crush Garlic and Spices to a paste in a Pestle and Mortar.  Mix with rest of ingredients.  Heat gently to release aromas, do not boil.

(Recipe from a great, seemingly authentic Moroccan Cook Book A Taste of Morocco, published Hachette)

Harissa
There are a million recipes, my favourite a basic blend of Olive Oil, Whole Cumin, Crushed Garlic, Coarse Salt and Loads of crushed Chilli.
But otherwise Roast Garlic, Red Peppers, Chilli, and blend with Olive Oil and ground Cumin.

….

I had meant to combine this post with recipe and pics of part-cured pig with apple and greengages, but it’ll have to wait…

Likewise, photos to be posted someday soon.

Hedgerow Syrup and A Line Made by Walking

24 Wednesday Aug 2011

Posted by the scrivener in Food

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PLEASE REFER TO LA BONNE BOUFFE FOR OLIVIA HEAL’S FOOD BLOG

A chesty cold and sore throat on waking took me to the fields for some dawn air and to gather some of those Elderberries hanging bulbous, big as Blackcurrants, before the birds did.  Wellybooted over pyjamas – for the Elder grows in patches of nettles high as my hips – I stepped out.  The fields dewladen, my steps marked the grass invoking Richard Long’s beautiful artwork – A Line Made by Walking.

A Line Made by Walking – Richard Long

The hedgerows brimming with fruits, as well as the Elderberries, I grabbed handfuls of Haws and Rosehips, Blackberries and Wild Apples… a few Crabapples, some wild Plums all to go in the syruppy concoction.  Chopped up the hard fruit, just covered with water in a pan and brought to simmer, then adding the soft fruits (remove the elderberries from their very bitter and cyanide rich stalks using a fork).  Pummel the lot adding a few Cloves, some grated Ginger and half a stick of Cinnamon.   Simmer gently for up to an hour, so the liquid is rich gloopy purple.

Strain for several hours or overnight through muslin.  Then, adding between 500g-750g of sugar per litre of liquid heat once again until the sugar is dissolved, the syrup just boiling.  Pour immediately into sterilised bottles and seal tightly.   The syrup keeps thus for several months, rich in Vitamin C and wild goodness it is somewhere between a cordial and a medicine.  Drink hot or cold, diluting with water, on those cold-ridden days, or wintry evenings by the fire, adding a splash of brandy when necessary.  Otherwise add to Crumbles, Pies and even stews for some late Summer Hedgerow Flavour.

…

If you happen to have a steam juicer this concoction can be made without sugar, the steamer will pasteurise the juice and it can likewise be kept in sterilised bottles for several months.

Bullace Gin + Sloe Gin

22 Monday Aug 2011

Posted by the scrivener in Food

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PLEASE REFER TO LA BONNE BOUFFE FOR OLIVIA HEAL’S FOOD BLOG

The season is nigh’, to rummage again in the hedgerows, concoct what preserves one might.  The next posts will surely be full of forage and preserving, as we hoard in preparation for the winter.  The weekend was spent on bikes foraging, and this evening a brief stint at Sloe and Bullace Gins.

I have already posted a foolhardy recipe for the Sloe Gin… Here’s a brew made with something of our rampant garden hedge – we suspect it is Bullace.

The same recipe applies for Bullace as for Sloe –  about 4pts Gin to 3lb Fruit and 1lb Sugar.
(I notice however the River Cottage handbook suggests equiv: 1.2 pt : 1lb :1lb , so perhaps one should say each to their own, depending (always) on what is to hand, and what feels right)
Shake/stir regularly and allow to mature over several months (at least two).  Then strain through muslin, bottle, and age further in bottles.  My father prides himself on drinking his ancient vintages of the stuff, here in the cottage we have trouble keeping it ’til Summer.  Indeed, my father is so abstemious, he would ne’er pick a Sloe before the first frost…. here, we couldn’t wait.  There will surely be a post-frost batch to follow.

Drink these wintry Gins in the depths of the season, huddled by the fire, fill a hip-flask on a blustery walk, or use for a farmhouse Kir aperitif, mixing it with home brewed Elderflower Champagne.  Right now however we’re drinking a more sober homemade Blackberry + Lemonade with Water Mint.  (Juice of 3 Lemons, 100g Sugar, a few squashed Blackberries and some Water Mint leaves, topped up with Sparkling Water and Ice if you have.)

Swimming Home by Deborah Levy (&Other Stories…)

13 Saturday Aug 2011

Posted by the scrivener in Reviews

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BOOK (P)REVIEW

She was not a poet. She was a poem.

 

It is a simple coincidence that I read Deborah Levy’s Swimming Home in the same week that I commenced Ali Smith’s The Accidental.  Toothache condemned me to blankets, books and the bedroom, and as my And Other Stories subscription dropped on the doorstep, so did Penguin publish a timely new edition of Smith’s novel, to coincide with the recent publication of her latest:  There but for the.  I cannot imagine the timing was intentional, it was merely, without wishing to sound trite, accidental.

Accidental, and yet incidental, for the reading of each novel served to illuminate and open up the reading of the other.  Not only can one draw parallels between the storylines: the appearance/apparition of an apparently vagrant girl, whose entrance into a household renders the (dis)functioning of a family transparent.

The young woman was a window waiting to be climbed through.  A window that she guessed was a little broken anyway.  She couldn’t be sure of this, but it seemed to her that Joe Jacobs had already wedged his foot into the crack and his wife had helped him. 

But, more interestingly, Smith’s and Levy’s narrative voices and textual innovations echo one another, not in imitation, almost in call-and-response, as musical phrases singing-out, challenging and commenting.  Every writer creates his own precursors, wrote Borges.  So, the voices of Ali Smith and Deborah Levy conjure and create one another, both writers exploring and crafting some of the most experimental contemporary English-language fiction, both exploding the often staid notions around literature and its role in the world.

…

I shall leave the concurrence with Ali Smith there; here wishing to concentrate on Levy’sSwimming Home, one of And Other Stories 2011 titles.  This small press aims to open a space and a place in the literary world for that literature that slips slightly outside of the mainstream.  Based on subscriptions and run by a handful of literary translators it is carving a passage into contemporary literary parlance independent of bestseller lists and bookseller magazines.   In a world where literature is so governed by those, by money and the mass-market, it is a delight to come across a publishers dedicated to other literature, other stories.   Let’s hope And Other Stories heralds the possibility of more such small presses, vital for the diversification and vivacity of contemporary literature.

There is no way you can send a fierce, exotic and brutally truthful hot head novel out into the British rain in a recession and expect a deal to be on the table with the scones, tea and Daily Mail. Editors are struggling with a toxic, cynical market of celebrity best sellers and even the braver ones are nervous. Contemporary readers are much more sophisticated than the whole mainstream publishing scene right now. There is a big counter-culture in the UK but it’s in the visual arts, music and performance, not in literature. There is a huge untapped market for experimental literary fiction.

(Deborah Levy, Dalkey Archive Press)

What And Other Stories stands for in the publishing world, Levy stands for in the literary world.  Brave, inventive, original, her written tongue is raw and unrehearsed.  Her writing, refusing conventional plot and character development, has the marks of thenouveau-roman, seen in the shattered characters, the deconstructed spaces and the flawlines rendered evident.  In these flaws and edges, in the seams, lies something inherently human, rippling with nerves, tender and hard-hitting.  Levy’s writing teeters on the brink of life, dreamy, dark, unnerving, it is literature à vif.

…

Thus: Swimming Home, Deborah Levy’s new novel.

As each of us might quest, crave a meeting with that other, interlocutor, mirror…  As in poetry, art and literature, one might, in a voice, a gathering of words, an image, come upon one’s self and one’s own experience…  As a written voice can nudge up to us, so close… As through reading one can meet, commune with that other…  So Kitty Finch arrives at the house where poet Joe Jacobs is holidaying with his family and some friends.  Kitty’s arrival, at first disguised as an error of double-booking, is in fact a contrived meeting with the poet.

So you’ve read all my books and now you’ve followed me to France.

The title of the novel is the title of the poem Kitty, botanist of green-painted-nails offers, in conversation, with poet Joe Jacobs.  We never read the poem, backbone of the novel, but understand from the poet that:

Her words were all over the place, swimming round the edges of the rectangle of paper, sometimes disappearing altogether, but coming back to the centre of the lined page with its sad and final message.

Indeed, same words could be used to describe the touch with which the book itself is crafted.

The poet’s daughter, Nina, sneaks a read of the poem herself and concludes:  Kitty is going to drown herself in our pool.  The first image of Kitty Finch in the pool, floating, swimming naked underwater, her long hair floating like seaweed at the sides of her body, thus becomes a premonition of what will likely be the final image, swimming home.  And yet what is written in the poem is unwritten and the final passages defy both the readers’ and the characters’ expectations.  As Nina looks closer at the body in the pool:

All the noise that was her father, all the words and spluttering utterances inside him, had disappeared into the water.

…

As Kitty Finch’s arrival amongst this group of characters reveals their inner-workings to themselves, and breaks through the eminently human falsehoods woven into life, thus Levy’s narrative voice affects literature.  The marginal figure of Kitty Finch, impossible to ignore, echoes Levy’s style of writing which renders transparent, challenges complacency and refuses comfort.  Replete with repeating images and ideas echoing, mirroring one another, with those coincidences, those accidents that make up the thread of life, entwined with humour and poignancy, Levy writes the frail complexity of human-nature with visionary insight and literary innovation.

I know what you’re thinking.  Because we hope it will get better and we’ll all get home safely.  But you tried and you did not get home safely.  You did not get home at all.  That is why I am here Jozef.  I have come to France to save you from your thoughts.

…

Swimming Home by Deborah Levy

Published by And Other Stories, 2011 (NYP)

ISBN: 978-1-908276-02-5

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